Bigkevs WIP No. 7 Polikarpov I-16 type 18 'Rata' 1/48

[Bigkev]

More progress...................

Now I have sprayed the Pale Blue undersides, and related parts. I did not have a dedicated Russian 'Blue' in my paints, so I had to mix something.
By using Tamiya Flat White XF-2 and Flat Blue XF-8 mixed at a ratio of about 10/1 came out with something like my references. Using TLAR principle 'That Looks About Right'
Sprayed thinly a few times gave what I wanted. Next will be masking ready for top coats.

Quiz for Kiteman, what are the parts in the picture with number 13 on them, (which aircraft kit do they come from?) and why have I decaled them with the number 13?

Bigkev

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[Kiteman]

Cheers for the words on filling.  I am tentatively putting this into practice and finding that being brave pays off.  My joints are starting to improve and I am also now using primer when I think they are perfect.  The primer shows me what my eye doesn't!  I'm learning the value of taking my time and being patient.  The eagerness to see the completed kit is now less of a priority for me, thanks for explaining how you do things, it's helped a great deal.

I too am watching and learning , and just like Wizzel the standard of my modelling is step for step improving as a result...many thanks again.

[Bigkev]

Hi All,
Just as a point in my last photo's, the underside view has what appears to be a faint lighter line running at an arc.
It is the reflection from the light/magnifier I use, sorry about that.
Bigkev

[Kiteman]

I know that I have said it before but the cleanliness of your entire work is amazing......i must be doing something wrong, `my models just don`t look like yours. I cant put my finger on it yet...but I will

[zak]

I have the same problem, I get in a rush to see the finished model and so probably cut corners.
Kevin does far more cleaning up, washing and sanding and achieves a superb finish.
Luckily my tanks need to look grubby and well worn.

[Wizzel]

Agreed with Kitey and Zak on them last 2 comments.  As I'm finding now I'm venturing back into aircraft, they are a lot less forgiving and it's well worth taking the time to make sure everything is clean and fits as well as possible BEFORE the glue gets uncapped.  But don't you find that however much you do a successful dry fit, as soon as the glue is applied, the bits just fly together any old how and never as you want them to?

[Kiteman]

I agree with you Wiz, I have that problem with etched brass, the bits are so tiny, finiky and awkward that I have to rehearse the picking up of the bit in my tweezers and then comes the intrepid journey from the worksurface onto the model, hoping that you do not hear the "ping" as the tips of the tweezers slam together and the tiny piece of metal is shot like a ballistik missile somewhere into the room. Despite the rehersals, as we know from our days playing in bands, the gig is a different thing. I do not understand why, despite all preventative measures, (clean work, very little glue etc. etc. ) and stringent rehersal, the bit of metal takes on a life of its own as soon as it comes close to its mating part. Does it know that this is not a rehersal, that there is glue there and that this positioning is for ever"!. This little piece of metal will sit somewhere else (other than where it should) very comfortably, put the glue where it shouldn`t be, and will refuse to sit still in the position it is intended to be.....................oh! the joys of modelling.

[Wizzel]

How eloquently put , Sir.  It seems to roll off the tongue much easier than, "that bugger's in the wrong bloody place!"

[Haddock]

I agree with you Wiz, I have that problem with etched brass, the bits are so tiny, finiky and awkward that I have to rehearse the picking up of the bit in my tweezers and then comes the intrepid journey from the worksurface onto the model, hoping that you do not hear the "ping" as the tips of the tweezers slam together and the tiny piece of metal is shot like a ballistik missile somewhere into the room. Despite the rehersals, as we know from our days playing in bands, the gig is a different thing. I do not understand why, despite all preventative measures, (clean work, very little glue etc. etc. ) and stringent rehersal, the bit of metal takes on a life of its own as soon as it comes close to its mating part. Does it know that this is not a rehersal, that there is glue there and that this positioning is for ever"!. This little piece of metal will sit somewhere else (other than where it should) very comfortably, put the glue where it shouldn`t be, and will refuse to sit still in the position it is intended to be.....................oh! the joys of modelling.

If you add to this the moment you realize that you have just squashed the piece of brass that you lovingly coaxed into to place a couple hours ago with your big fat thumb and now you have to attempt to straighten it out without destroying it completely. Doh!

[Bigkev]

The joys(?) of modelling, eh?
Bigkev

[Kiteman]

Heddock, is that just before or just after you`ve knocked off three other metal bits that you have sweat over getting right?

[Bigkev]

Hi All,
Not posted for a few days so will bring up to date with 'Rata'.

Now that the under surface has well and truly dried my attention shifted to the upper surfaces. Looking at references I could see that the 'Rata' suffered in operations being abused by pilots and groundcrew, and as such had areas of wear on the wing/fuselage where boots had chipped paint off, also some of the panels around engine access and machine guns. To try and replicate this, I sprayed Alclad II 'Airframe Silver' on the areas affected. I made sure that the silver did not extend further out where the wings were wood!
I then applied wet Salt to walkways and panel edges, dabbed on randomly where I thought appropriate. Then I allowed it to dry.
I masked off the undersides with paper and Tamiya tape ensuring wing leading edges were properly stuck down, Where the demarcation line on the fuselage was I used Blu-Tack rolled into sausage shapes, this helps give a wavy, but slightly feathered edge.
The green went on next, I used Humbrol No.117 on the basis TLAR ('that looks about right') I sprayed lightly, making sure the paint was sprayed away from the tape/blu-tack to prevent build up, and achieved a more or less even coverage. However after allowing to dry it showed a few areas where more paint needs to be applied. In the photo's you might be able to see the Salt on the green. Next I will complete the upper surface, and paint the spinner, which I forgot to do first time. Also the Salt masking will be removed to reveal the silver (hopefully)
Coming along nicely.
Bigkev

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[Kiteman]

Wow Kev, now this is what I call a build report...fantastic, just what we mere mortals need! I have heard of the salt method of weathering before but never seen it in practice. Some time ago I tried using salt and hairspary on a practice piece, it worked ok but I have never tried it on a model.
I am following your every move and little by litte my modelling is improving. Thanks for making the effort and posting such detailed descriptions and not keeping your cards too close to your chest, Keep it coming....this is great!!!

[zak]

Looking forward to the removal of the salt.
Interesting process that I have only read about.
The proof of the pudding and all that.

[Bigkev]

Yes, me too!...............................
Have everything crossed. Will post tomorrow morning with results, good I hope!
Bigkev