Bridlington & Wolds Scale Model Club Forum
Models => Modelling Projects => Topic started by: Bigkev on April 14, 2015, 07:39:47 PM
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Hi All,
Well decided that I would stray away from the 'White Stuff' for a little while.
Whilst at Darlington I bought a book on the IL-2 Stormovik, which I intend to build soon. However I also had the Hobbycraft Polikarpov I-16 Type 18 in 1/48 in the stash, begging to be built. So I decided that would be my next project.
The kit is moulded in pale grey, and has some fine raised and scribed panel lines. The kit is quite basic, but I think I can make a few improvements along the way to make it look half decent.
I started by opening the holes in the wing undersides for the underwing rockets supplied, then glued top wing parts in place, taped together and put aside to dry.
The fuselage was next point. A dry fit showed that the bottom of the fuselage needed a shim of plastic card to pack out to match the wing joint more readily. This was done with thin strips, to be sanded to a feather edge towards tail once dry.
Next the cockpit which is very poor, crude and basic. Not being a rivet counter I decided to embellish the missing details with plastic card, stretched sprue, some lead wire, and wine bottle foil. The sprue etc. was designed to give an impression of internal structure, and though not 100% accurate I think looks passable. The instrument panel needed to be brought forward into the cockpit as it sat too far in. The seat was usable but thickly moulded on the edges so was thinned down by sanding and scraping to a more acceptable scale thickness. I then added wine bottle foil to represent seat belts.
This was cut into thin strips then manipulated into a more natural fabric look before being glued in place with superglue and a little activator to make it stick.
Whilst on the fuselage I drilled out the engine exhaust stubs, and also drilled the two missing 'portholes' from underneath the canopy coaming (designed to help illuminate the instrument panel), and also the hand grips that were also there for the pilot.
Tomorrow I shall start painting the cockpit, engine, instrument panel.
Some pictures of the work so far:-
Bigkev
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Nice to see that you are keeping busy.
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Are you on the same medication as Zak ?
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Don't go there, the hay fever seems to be starting after a walk up Farndale yesterday. Visitors here, modelling is on hold.
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am looking aorward to seeing something military from you....so far so good.
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am looking aorward to seeing something military from you....so far so good.
dyslexia rule ko
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Now boys behave!
Off work at moment with tooth abscess, but gives me time to model. Something for my pain..............
Bigkev
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Sorry to hear you are unwell, get some pain relief in - modelling that is!
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I am...........
In between pain killers, I am using my time to model, though going to dentist tomorrow so he might scupper plans ahead.
Anyway today have managed to paint cockpit interior, give it a 'wash' and pick out details. Engine still to do, probably tonight.
Some final touch ups on cockpit required before another coat of matt varnish to tone everything down. Also have to pick out instrument bezels, dials and glaze them before attaching into cockpit.
As you can see, all works in progress, in shoe box lid to keep things tidy. Not normally this organised, must be poorly!!
Work so far:-
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well have completed instrument panel rather than engine tonight. This will be put into fuselage tomorrow along with cockpit floor/seat which again I have finished off.
Tomorrow should see the fuselage and wings mated as the engine can be installed later on in the build.
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Sorry not posted for a few days. However, have been building a little bit more.
The engine has been painted, the cockpit added to the fuselage, and the whole wing fuselage assembly attached. Later after drying joints have been filled, and sanded. more work will be needed here with Mr Surfacer but overall looking okay.
I have separated the tailplanes/elevators and added shims to the elevators and hinge extensions to the tailplanes. Once tidied up these will be attached to fuselage, the elevators 'drooped'. (most I-16's seen like this when on ground)
The engine cowling needs attaching, and also the gun fairings, and guns themselves(wings) before final filling and sanding can take place.
Notice that I have faired in behind cockpit with plasticard as the kit part was poor in fitting, this again will be filled and sanded during tidying up.
Some pictures attached of work so far.
Bigkev
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Interesting use of rubber bands and those clamps again. I looked for them at the model messe last weekend but over here they are no where to be seen...where can I get myself some?
Again, your attention to detail is amazing!
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I see those clamps come in useful, see Haddock has the odd inspiration.
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Interesting use of rubber bands and those clamps again. I looked for them at the model messe last weekend but over here they are no where to be seen...where can I get myself some?
Again, your attention to detail is amazing!
I've got too many for my own use, if I can remember, I'll pass a pair over to Wizzel at our next meeting. Perhaps he can get them to you.
Haddock
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Well done, Sir Haddock, what a good bloke you are!
This is really quick work Kevin, see what you can do when work doesn't get in the way.
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Yep, Roll on retirement!
Only another 11 years to go.......................................
However, being off has given me an impetus/ spur to my building. Tonight I will be doing more work on the 'Rata'.
Might even be ready for paint by weekend, now that would be quick for me.
However back to work today, so won't have as much time as last week, but here goes...........
Cheers,
BigkevWell done, Sir Haddock, what a good bloke you are!
This is really quick work Kevin, see what you can do when work doesn't get in the way.
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Haddock, you are a gentelman sir, please let me know what I owe you for the clamps...I am very exited, like a small boy in a model shop!
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I've a few things to settle up with Haddock for anyhow so I'll see him right for the clamps.
Nice kit Kevin. I always liked the Russian stuff - it always looked very business like - and I'm getting more good tips on putting things together properly. Cheers.
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Can you remember being a small boy in a model shop? Dusty boxes `n all!
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Hi All,
Well now the model is beginning to take shape. but I found that the tailplanes were a poor fit, requiring some filler. In this case because of the depth of filler required in places, Milliput was the filler of choice. It was allowed to dry rock hard overnight, and then gently sanded with wet and dry, using plenty of soap and water.
Some Pictures of model attached:-
Bigkev
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I was wondering if you have a formula to decide how to use a particular filler for a particular job? I have a tube of Squadron Green Putty which I am intending to use for all filling jobs but is there better fillers for certain things or is it personal choice?
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That seems like an awful lot of Milliput! I will be interested to see piccies of the sanded down Version. Watching your work is a worthwile learning experience. Thanks for the piccies!
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Hi All,
Little more progress with this one. The Milliput has been sanded down, and then an application of Mr Surfacer 500 applied. This was then again rubbed down to give a good final finish to the joints.
Note to Kiteman, yes it seemed a lot of filler, but the tailplanes were deeper than the stubs to attach to so the Milliput was to build them up)
I use differing types of filler to cope with various issues. Milliput for deep or strength, Greenstuff for quick fix, Mr Surfacer 500 or 1000 for final finish on joints where either of other two used.
Tailplanes now attached, wing guns in place, headrest made and in place, hole for aerial drilled ready in fuselage spine, tail wheel added, Cockpit canopy dipped a couple of times in 'Kleer' to give better clarity.
Airframe now ready to paint...........................Yippee!
Pictures of the above:-
Bigkev
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All becomes clear. Thank you very much for your detailed explanations on what and why you do what you do. For the relatively inexperienced and incompetent modeller like me, these entries from you and the guys are better than any book that money can buy. It`s the best practical teaching in building models that one can get....and all for 1 Pound a month...it`s a steal! Thank you once again and keep it coming!
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Hi All,
Well painting has now started.
First of all I masked the cockpit and engine openings with damp tissue paper and pushed this into the openings. It can be removed later easily by re applying water and then removed with tweezers.
I have primed all the parts and the airframe with Tamiya Surface primer from a rattle can. the secret here is to spray evenly with light passes and then allowing the paint to dry for at least 24 hours. I then donned a rubber glove to prevent my greasy fingerprints spoiling the paint job, and lightly rubbed the airframe and other parts with a 6000 grit polishing cloth. This effectively smooth's the surface ready for colour. It also highlights any areas still needing attention. Luckily this time there weren't any.
Next time it will be time to apply colour.
Bigkev
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Next instalment...................
I decided to prime the undersides with Tamiya Flat White, as the pale blue may have been harder to achieve over the grey primer.
This sprays very well, I use a ratio of 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner sprayed at a fairly low pressure, key here though is to use three or four thin coats, and when happy with coverage to be allowed to dry fully for 24 hours before rubbing down with 6000 grade polishing cloth.
The blue will be next................................
Bigkev
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Excellent work.
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Hi All,
Well painting has now started.
First of all I masked the cockpit and engine openings with damp tissue paper and pushed this into the openings. It can be removed later easily by re applying water and then removed with tweezers.
I have primed all the parts and the airframe with Tamiya Surface primer from a rattle can. the secret here is to spray evenly with light passes and then allowing the paint to dry for at least 24 hours. I then donned a rubber glove to prevent my greasy fingerprints spoiling the paint job, and lightly rubbed the airframe and other parts with a 6000 grit polishing cloth. This effectively smooth's the surface ready for colour. It also highlights any areas still needing attention. Luckily this time there weren't any.
Next time it will be time to apply colour.
Bigkev
Question, do you apply the primer straight from the rattle-can or do you decant it into a container and then into the airbrush?
Haddock.
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Cheers for the words on filling. I am tentatively putting this into practice and finding that being brave pays off. My joints are starting to improve and I am also now using primer when I think they are perfect. The primer shows me what my eye doesn't! I'm learning the value of taking my time and being patient. The eagerness to see the completed kit is now less of a priority for me, thanks for explaining how you do things, it's helped a great deal.
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Hi Haddock,
I used the Tamiya Primer straight from the can. A few gentle passes was enough remembering to spray before subject and stopping after passing.
I think it may be more appropriate to decant for your subjects though, as there is little control with a spray can where delicacy is needed.
For 'Clumpy' here, it worked for me...............................this time
Bigkev
And Wizzel, glad your filling has improved and finishing technique, keep it up!
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More progress...................
Now I have sprayed the Pale Blue undersides, and related parts. I did not have a dedicated Russian 'Blue' in my paints, so I had to mix something.
By using Tamiya Flat White XF-2 and Flat Blue XF-8 mixed at a ratio of about 10/1 came out with something like my references. Using TLAR principle 'That Looks About Right'
Sprayed thinly a few times gave what I wanted. Next will be masking ready for top coats.
Quiz for Kiteman, what are the parts in the picture with number 13 on them, (which aircraft kit do they come from?) and why have I decaled them with the number 13?
Bigkev
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Cheers for the words on filling. I am tentatively putting this into practice and finding that being brave pays off. My joints are starting to improve and I am also now using primer when I think they are perfect. The primer shows me what my eye doesn't! I'm learning the value of taking my time and being patient. The eagerness to see the completed kit is now less of a priority for me, thanks for explaining how you do things, it's helped a great deal.
I too am watching and learning , and just like Wizzel the standard of my modelling is step for step improving as a result...many thanks again.
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Hi All,
Just as a point in my last photo's, the underside view has what appears to be a faint lighter line running at an arc.
It is the reflection from the light/magnifier I use, sorry about that.
Bigkev
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I know that I have said it before but the cleanliness of your entire work is amazing......i must be doing something wrong, `my models just don`t look like yours. I cant put my finger on it yet...but I will
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I have the same problem, I get in a rush to see the finished model and so probably cut corners.
Kevin does far more cleaning up, washing and sanding and achieves a superb finish.
Luckily my tanks need to look grubby and well worn.
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Agreed with Kitey and Zak on them last 2 comments. As I'm finding now I'm venturing back into aircraft, they are a lot less forgiving and it's well worth taking the time to make sure everything is clean and fits as well as possible BEFORE the glue gets uncapped. But don't you find that however much you do a successful dry fit, as soon as the glue is applied, the bits just fly together any old how and never as you want them to?
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I agree with you Wiz, I have that problem with etched brass, the bits are so tiny, finiky and awkward that I have to rehearse the picking up of the bit in my tweezers and then comes the intrepid journey from the worksurface onto the model, hoping that you do not hear the "ping" as the tips of the tweezers slam together and the tiny piece of metal is shot like a ballistik missile somewhere into the room. Despite the rehersals, as we know from our days playing in bands, the gig is a different thing. I do not understand why, despite all preventative measures, (clean work, very little glue etc. etc. ) and stringent rehersal, the bit of metal takes on a life of its own as soon as it comes close to its mating part. Does it know that this is not a rehersal, that there is glue there and that this positioning is for ever"!. This little piece of metal will sit somewhere else (other than where it should) very comfortably, put the glue where it shouldn`t be, and will refuse to sit still in the position it is intended to be.....................oh! the joys of modelling.
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How eloquently put , Sir. It seems to roll off the tongue much easier than, "that bugger's in the wrong bloody place!"
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I agree with you Wiz, I have that problem with etched brass, the bits are so tiny, finiky and awkward that I have to rehearse the picking up of the bit in my tweezers and then comes the intrepid journey from the worksurface onto the model, hoping that you do not hear the "ping" as the tips of the tweezers slam together and the tiny piece of metal is shot like a ballistik missile somewhere into the room. Despite the rehersals, as we know from our days playing in bands, the gig is a different thing. I do not understand why, despite all preventative measures, (clean work, very little glue etc. etc. ) and stringent rehersal, the bit of metal takes on a life of its own as soon as it comes close to its mating part. Does it know that this is not a rehersal, that there is glue there and that this positioning is for ever"!. This little piece of metal will sit somewhere else (other than where it should) very comfortably, put the glue where it shouldn`t be, and will refuse to sit still in the position it is intended to be.....................oh! the joys of modelling.
If you add to this the moment you realize that you have just squashed the piece of brass that you lovingly coaxed into to place a couple hours ago with your big fat thumb and now you have to attempt to straighten it out without destroying it completely. Doh!
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The joys(?) of modelling, eh?
Bigkev
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Heddock, is that just before or just after you`ve knocked off three other metal bits that you have sweat over getting right?
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Hi All,
Not posted for a few days so will bring up to date with 'Rata'.
Now that the under surface has well and truly dried my attention shifted to the upper surfaces. Looking at references I could see that the 'Rata' suffered in operations being abused by pilots and groundcrew, and as such had areas of wear on the wing/fuselage where boots had chipped paint off, also some of the panels around engine access and machine guns. To try and replicate this, I sprayed Alclad II 'Airframe Silver' on the areas affected. I made sure that the silver did not extend further out where the wings were wood!
I then applied wet Salt to walkways and panel edges, dabbed on randomly where I thought appropriate. Then I allowed it to dry.
I masked off the undersides with paper and Tamiya tape ensuring wing leading edges were properly stuck down, Where the demarcation line on the fuselage was I used Blu-Tack rolled into sausage shapes, this helps give a wavy, but slightly feathered edge.
The green went on next, I used Humbrol No.117 on the basis TLAR ('that looks about right') I sprayed lightly, making sure the paint was sprayed away from the tape/blu-tack to prevent build up, and achieved a more or less even coverage. However after allowing to dry it showed a few areas where more paint needs to be applied. In the photo's you might be able to see the Salt on the green. Next I will complete the upper surface, and paint the spinner, which I forgot to do first time. Also the Salt masking will be removed to reveal the silver (hopefully)
Coming along nicely.
Bigkev
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Wow Kev, now this is what I call a build report...fantastic, just what we mere mortals need! I have heard of the salt method of weathering before but never seen it in practice. Some time ago I tried using salt and hairspary on a practice piece, it worked ok but I have never tried it on a model.
I am following your every move and little by litte my modelling is improving. Thanks for making the effort and posting such detailed descriptions and not keeping your cards too close to your chest, Keep it coming....this is great!!!
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Looking forward to the removal of the salt.
Interesting process that I have only read about.
The proof of the pudding and all that.
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Yes, me too!...............................
Have everything crossed. Will post tomorrow morning with results, good I hope!
Bigkev
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Hi All,
well the moment of truth arrived, and I am pleased to say it turned out quite well. The Salt mask rubbed off with some Blu Tack to reveal the 'metal' areas quite nicely. A little touch up and dry brushing will be in order to neaten the effect but it worked a treat.
The paint job also went well, with only a little creep under the masking near to the wheel well which can be touched up. The engine front needs a little work with fine paintbrush as does the port wing leading edge demarcation, but nothing too onerous. A few more places will benefit from a little touch up but they are very minor.
As this aircraft depicted is overall green I decided to add some contrast to the colour and make it less monotone. I quickly masked off the metal access panels on the wing, and gave a quick blast of the base colour lightened slightly with Humbrol 78 'Interior Green'. This gave subtle change to these areas and I think more realistic.
Next job to touch up as described, then apply a coat of Kleer to seal everything ready for Decalling and weathering.
So far so good...................
Bigkev
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You are absolutely right the subtle colour difference really is effective, and I like it...will be trying that one sometime. Nice work with the salt, a technique that I shall also be using.......It`s going to be another great model from Big Kev!
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I think I would like to see the real thing to be convinced about the salt method, difficult to tell from the photos.
keep at it.
Dave
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Will not make it to next meeting with 'Rata', but will be ready for Northern Model Show.
You may look and judge for yourself.
Bigkev
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One of those GRRRRRRR! Moments!!
Hi All,
All was going too well wasn't it. I had just put on a coat of 'Kleer' to about 3/4's of the model leaving one wing until first coat had dried. I Then coated that wing, and put aside for that to dry also.
I then dropped the B*****y thing, and in true modelling form broke off the port tailplane, and elevator.
A few choice words like 'Oh dear, the naughty thing would do that' followed.
After a minute or two I chilled out and surveyed the damage. The tailplane and elevator could be re-glued quite easily, but requiring a little touch up with filler and paint job. However a small section of the tip of the tailplane has decided to go into another dimension, snapping off and going who knows where. I don't even have a carpet monster in my modelling room. In addition the paint job on the tailplane underside has flaked off requiring a strip down of the tailplane and a repaint.
I will have to repair the tailplane making up a new tip from plasticard carved and sanded to shape. This has put me back a few days.
Oh, modelling is such fun isn't it!
Bigkev
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OOOPS - the joys of modelling strike again.
If something does not go wrong early in the build the chances are it will towards the end.
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I think you and Kiteman must have been swapping modelling techniques; he's learnt all about filling and sanding from you in turn he has coached you in clumsiness! And just think, we'd likely never have known if you hadn't told us!
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It always pays to be honest.
Well most of the time.
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Sorry to hear about the damage, but quietly I am glad that it just doesnt only happen to me.
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I find I have an 'event' of some sort with every model.
The key is working out how to overcome them, some are easy, some seem just downright impossible.
Being a member of a club helps, as there is a good chance someone will have a suggestion/method you have not thought of, or tried.
Tomorrow will see 'operation repair' begin.
Tonight a good nights sleep!
Bigkev
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and that's the brilliant bit about our club - as I and Kitey have mentioned many times, we have no secrets from each other and we two have gained so much through the website which has improved our standard and confidence enormously. I look forward to learning how you repaired you broken tail.
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me too!
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Operation Repair is underway.......................
What I did first was to attach the tailplane to the fuselage using thick type superglue and activator. Once dry I removed any excess glue with a scalpel and the used fine wet and dry sandpaper to smooth the join. there is only a minute amount of filling to be done, which will be with Mr Surfacer 500. The tailplane tip a little more involved. I made sure the broken edge was made flat by filing it. This is so the plasticard replacement has a good bonding edge.
Whilst I was at it I cleaned up the trailing edge of tailplane and leading edge of elevator removing any dried glue from its previous life. The tailplane paintwork suffered a little but can be easily re-sprayed to match later.
A piece of thick plasticard 30 thou? was butt joined to the tailplane with a mix of tube and liquid cement and allowed 24 hours to dry.
Once dry, it was out with the sanding sticks and a scalpel with new blade to trim to near size ready for final finishing. I test fitted the elevator in place to check I had the curvature right. I needed to add a shim of plasticard to the rear to increase the curvature to match better. This was done with 5 thou card attached with Tamiya liquid glue and is being allowed to dry properly overnight.
A few pics to show:-
Bigkev
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Fine work.
A lesson to us all.
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superb!
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Okay, Phase two of Operation repair.
The plastic replacement has been sanded to shape, and the curvature addressed. I then applied Mr Surfacer 500 to both the tailplane joint and replacement part. When dry I rubbed these down and was happy with the repair except that there was a niggling join seam on the wing to tailplane still visible. So I used some Green Stuff body putty to this and again when dry sanded. This seemed to do the trick.
Next it was out with the Tamiya grey to undercoat the areas of work. I was not too worried about neatness here, as I was looking for uniform finish in the parts worked on and a good smooth finish to apply colour to.
Then I mixed the pale blue from Tamiya white and blue, but made it just a fraction paler than the finish already on. The reason is using Kleer had deepened the colour slightly so I wanted to try and match the blue as near as possible, once a fresh coat of Kleer was applied to the repair area's.
Again I was not too worried about neatness, as the Green upper surface will be strong enough to cover any overspray. What will need to be done is a masking job on the blue under surfaces, to ensure the demarcation lines match the existing paintwork.
Some pictures of work done.
Bigkev
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Only we will know what you have done, pity it is on the web, everyone knows now.
Well done Kevin and what patience you have.
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master work...I am jealous.
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A thoroughly competent repair which I would have no trouble certifying as airworthy for combat.
On another matter raised way back on page 3hree by Kiteman.
Of course small pieces be they whatever material, but particularly etch will fly off into the wild blue yonder when handled with tweezers as they require tension to hold the piece. Much better to get a pot of tacky wax and apply a small dab to a cocktail stick, piece of sprue or whatever takes your fancy then use the adhesion of the wax to maneuver the part into place. The adhesion of the wax is weaker than glue so does not drag as you remove the waxed holder. With no tension there is no potential energy to launch delicate bits into the ether. It takes a little time to master but the worst that can happen during the apprenticeship is the wayward part will drop onto your work bench and wait for the next attempt.
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Lovely repair job and also a lesson on how to do it. Will you need to add that slight raised 'rib' too on the end of the tailplane? I noticed there's one just outside the outer hinge on the starboard tailplane.
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Wax eh? Thanks Kiwi, I'll give that a try. Not lost any parts yet but I haven't ventured into the world of etched brass much as all the bits I've used so far have been large enough to to cause me any problems. I shall practice with those big bits.
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Hi All,
What Kiwichappers says is true. However My, 'event' was self induced by clumpy fingers and not paying attention.
I have some 'sticky' pencils I got from Telford which I sometimes use to pick up the very small delicate bits. Same principle as Tacky Wax or similar.
Anyway onto 'Operation Repair'...................
I have now masked off the underside using paper, Tamiya tape, and Blu-Tack. I sprayed Humbrol 117 onto the area's I needed to repaint. As can be seen, the paint appears to be lighter and 'Matt' to the current finish. This was expected as the previous paint job had been 'Kleered'. Once the paint is dry I will 'Kleer' the repainted area again and hopefully there should be no difference, and all will blend in seamlessly.
Tune in next time, all will be revealed, until then some pics.
Bigkev
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Nothing like blending in seamlessly.
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Great thing about it, is no one knows your there..................................
Unless I tap on your shoulder!
Bigkev
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See if it were me, I'd have hacked at the tailplane with a scalpel, smudged a bit of aluminium paint on and called it battle damage - broken part sorted in 2 minutes. NOW if it happens, I know exactly what I SHOULD do - and will do too. Again, thanks for the inspiration to 'model' rather than 'assemble'.
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amazing....just amazing!
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Pleased I don't have to do this to a ship.........yet.
Haddock.
Hope I'm not tempting fate.
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Hi Haddock,
With your skill, I find it unlikely that you will suffer my fate. However if you have awoken that 'Gremlin' I know you will be able to subdue him, and put him back into his box.
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well I have now managed to apply 'Kleer' to the aircraft. I used 4 or 5 thin coats over a couple of days. The idea is to build up a nice gloss finish, ready for decaling. The repainted areas now match both colour and finish.
Also I have applied Alclad II 'White Aluminium' and 'Steel' mixed about 2 to 1, to give a nice metallic to the propeller.
Next job to apply natural metal band to cowling, and paint the exhausts.
Some pictures to show progress.
Bigkev
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That is looking really good. Well done on the repair, a lesson for all of us.
Thanks Kiwi for the tip on handling etched brass, I will use that method....never heard of it before. That is exactly what this Website is all about, helping each other to get better and better.
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Don't forget to talk us through how you do the natural metal band on the cowling. And I shall now start putting more coats of klear on my models before progressing. One or maybe two had done me until now!
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Hi All,
Well the metal cowling fixing is attached and the exhaust ports have been touched in.
At this stage there is no weathering, so the exhaust ports appear too bright, but once toned down and matt varnish applied it will look a lot better.
The metal ring is that. Cooking foil cut into a thin strip then a thumb nail drawn along its length to make it smooth. The side shown is the 'Dull side' the reverse 'Bright Side' is far too shiny to be in keeping. In fact the metal ring will also need some light toning down during weathering process.
The foil was attached simply by applying 'Kleer' to the moulded ring then laying on the foil around the fuselage, trimming to length, and then another coat of 'Kleer' over the foil to seal it.
It is a little fiddly to do, but worth it.
Some pictures follow:-
Next decaling and weathering.
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Just to show that still progressing with 'Rata'. I have now applied all decals, and only a couple of small areas where I need to deal with silvering, on the tail numbers, and fuselage inscription.
I have now pricked and re-applied Micro Sol where necessary and think that will do the trick.
Weathering will be next.
Bigkev
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..out of my league....
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That is looking great, you are getting lots of hits on this one Kevin.
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A few pictures to show process of applying Dark Wash to panel lines and 'Oil Paint' filters to break up top surface finish.
Flory Wash is applied allowed to dry and then excess removed by a damp brush/cotton bud.
The Oil Colour Filters are literally small 'dots' of paint applied randomly then drawn back using adry brush/cotton bud. If it goes wrong remove the paint with a damp turpentine loaded brush, allow to air dry then start again. Practice and very small amounts of paint are the key here.
Enjoy!
Bigkev
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More pics:-
Bigkev
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Are you taking it to the Northern Model show?
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Sadly No..........
Still work to do on it, and work and family commitments( I've got a wedding coming up) means I am not able to finish it in time.
I'd rather take time to finish it rather than trying to rush and spoil it.
It will appear, I promise.
Bigkev
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...and my learning curve goes vertical once again...thanks Kevin ;)
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Very nice dirt, fits very well to the plane!
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Thanks Gents,
Hopefully will get it finished very soon, just need to add all the fiddly bits and a final coat of varnish.
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well finally its over, finished today at last.
Model now done, worst bit of last leg was getting undercarriage doors in place, requiring two pairs of hands to complete.
Sprayed with Vallejo Matt varnish to seal everything then canopy attached last. For pitot tube I used 2 sizes Albion Alloys hollow aluminium tubing, gave a very neat finish to this part, recommended to all.
Some pictures of finished model attached.
Bigkev
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Positive stroking aside, it looks good.
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I agree with Zak, surprising how the varnish seem to bring everything together.
Haddock.
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Nice to see it looking so good at the end and thanks again for the details of HOW you do what you do. Is there a "colour wheel" to help with the oil paint "streaks" so you know which colours to use?