Bigkev's WIP Roden REIMS FTB337G Lynx 'Bush Wars' 1/32nd scale

[Bigkev]

Update!!
I have been busily ferreting away, sticking parts together, though not as easy as it seems.
This kit is full of flash, and mould slippage, which takes ages to clean up. Each part needed some remedy work to make them useable.
The seat mounting parts are probably the worst as can be seen in the pictures.
Anyway, I think I am somewhere near painting stage at last, so maybe my next post will have some paint details.
This model needs a great deal of weight, the metal firewall and engine help a lot, but I added some lead weight to the rear of the firewall from some aquarium lead from Haddock, given a few years ago, also some 'liquid gravity into the rear of the engine mounting, secured with super glue thick.
The clear parts have been dipped in 'Kleer' which improved their appearance greatly. Note I have left some of the sprue attached to each glazed window, so I could hold each part in a peg whilst the 'Kleer' dried.
Anyway, some pictures follow.
Thanks,
Bigkev 

[Bigkev]

A few more pictures.
Bigkev

[zak]

Wow, lots of extra work needed on this kit.

[chriswil42]

There's certainly a lot of work there Kevin. Looking pretty good; looking forward to the finished model.

[cph64]

Plenty to keep you busy there on your days off!!!

[Bob C]

I agree lots of good work, excellent idea with the glazing why didn’t I think of that.

Bob c

[Bigkev]

Thanks Guys,

This model has certainly given me an appreciation of modelling skills, learnt so far, and still to learn.

Paint is being applied, and I will be posting in due course.

Cheers,
Bigkev

[Red Lancer]

Really amazing perseverance, Kevin.
It would have been in the bin long ago with me.
It will be great when finished!

[Bigkev]

Hi All,
Thankyou for your positive comments.
No pictures of paint yet, as I realised I needed to sort the fuselage transparencies.
These fitted really poor, and on the 337 Lynx some have a porthole type of appearance.
To overcome this I glued the parts in place using 'Humbrol' Clearfix, a bit thick, clear adhesive, so once dry I added some small drops of super glue in strategic areas, to ensure a good bond.
I then used 'Bare-metal foil' , to mask the outside of the clear parts.(see photo's)
I then used Perfect Plastic Putty, by Deluxe to fill any issues in the glazing. I had already painted the outside edges of the transparencies in dark grey, and also the mating surfaces.
I then masked the internal glazing with Tamiya Tape to cover the glazed portions that would be seen.
Once dry it was apparent that some issues remained, but I decided to apply some paint to match the internal paint scheme, and the later on attempt to fill any deficiencies as best I could.
Once dry, I will probably attempt to rectify/disguise any flaws in the glazing.
I also noted the was a slight sink mark on the fuselage, so applied Mr. Surfacer 500 with a brush, and once dry gently sanded back for a better finish.
Some pictures follow of the cockpit glazing issues
Bigkev

 

[zak]

Wow, that's going the extra mile,
Are you not worried that superglue may fog the transparencies?

[MSea]

Well done Kevin - if it was mine I would have said the windows have fallen out, or done it as an old plane in a museum, but that's me not you - hohohho

[chriswil42]

An amazing amount of work there Kevin. No wonder your models look great.

[Red Lancer]

Wow,  looks good after all the effort

[cph64]

Some hard work needed to get it to here but no doubt it will be worth it in the end. Looking forward to it.

[Bigkev]

Hi Guys,

Thankyou for all your comments.

I must admit I had a 'Aaaaaargh!' moment!

One of those pesky windows dropped out in cleaning up. It nearly became a 1/32 scale flying model at this stage!

However following Zak's example, I walked away and returned a few hours later and decided a plan to overcome the problem. Despite the potential issue of 'fogging' I decided to use superglue to re-attach the glazing, hoping that the 'Kleer' will prevent any fogging..........

I have used both 'Green stuff' and Mr. Surfacer 500 to help fill any problem area's, these seem to have done the trick.

I might now be able to get painting underway in earnest.

A couple of pictures follow after re=glueing, sanding, and re-priming.

Thanks,
Bigkev