Bridlington & Wolds Scale Model Club Forum
Models => Modelling Projects => Topic started by: Bigkev on October 24, 2015, 03:48:03 PM
-
Hi All,
Well to accompany the Do-27, I thought I would have a go at the Dornier D0-28 Skyservant. My kit is the original Matchbox moulding in three colours and a clear sprue. I know this has been re-released by Revell, with new markings, but this one was a cheap purchase less than half the price of the Revell issue.
I have attached some pictures of the main parts/sprues before I get stuck in, in earnest.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hey! You wont need to paint it!!!! ;)
-
Hi All,
Though it seems a nice idea, this model will be painted. The three colour sprues were Matchbox's attempt to make it more appealing to younger modellers, a nice notion, but for a serious modeller a hindrance rather than an aid.
Anyway I decide to do a test dry fit to see potential issues in the build. As with most Matchbox kits there are simplified pieces, though quite accurate dimensionally.
The engine pods were assembled, but I already knew that they will need some filling and tidying up to make good, in particular the intakes and exhausts which are more or less non-existent.
Also identified was the numerous sink marks in the mouldings that need correction, these can be seen in the attached photo's as black marker pen marks, a good way the highlight area's for correction.
The tailplanes are shown as 'ribbed' with only a trim tab moulded on them. However my information suggests that they were metal stressed skin, and of variable incidence, therefore some work needed to correct them and some re-scribing of these and the main wings too.
The cockpit/fuselage interior though simple, once dressed up with a few details looks promising enough to pass muster.
The wings have been assembled, but the slats need a little work to blend them in better to the upper surface, and as already noted some re-scribing. One particular omission is the landing light on the Starboard outer wing, this I intend to modify and a new light cover moulded from acetate.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I picked up the Revell version dead cheap in a Modelzone sale a few years back so I'll be watching your build for tips. That's assuming I ever get chance to do any modelling again...."Yes, DCOS, I'll be right there!..." (sighs).
-
Hi Wizzel,
If you need any advice from my build, just ask if I don't explain enough. Its a learning curve for me too with this one.
Bigkev
-
I always find your builds interesting, and there is always something that I can take away with me...thank you.
-
Hi All,
Sorry, have been busy at work, etc. but I have made a little more progress with the build. I have cut out the light fairing on the right (starboard wing) and have faced it with plasticard. I intend to add a micro lens, to act as landing light with a vac-form cover before end of build.
Cut out light area with a razor saw then 'faced' the edges with thin plasticard.
Also have done work on seats, interior, and seat belts. photo's of these will follow next time. Until then here's the wing landing light.
Cheers,
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Nice to see you back to modelling.
-
Thanks Zak,
Nice to get something going albeit slowly at moment.
Anyway I have done some work on interior and seats. Very little will be seen but it is nice to know its there.
The seats have been trimmed slightly to remove seating block at base of seat and raised slightly with aid of scrap under seat. Harnesses and belts added from metal foil from a bottle of Cava, then bent folded to appear more lifelike added to seat painted and then slightly weathered to simulate folds, metal fixings. Instrument panel painted in various colours from black to white, green, blue, yellow, red. Again a suggestion rather than implicit detail is what I am after.
Interior painted medium grey, with a few additional ribbing sections added.
Ready to be buttoned up now.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Coming along nicely
-
Hi All,
Well some more progress made in this build. The fuselage has been glued together and the joints attended to. There was quite a step on the fuselage top along wing fairing, so a little bit of work needed. I use 'Green Stuff' which is applied to the joint sanded back and more added if necessary, this sanded back again. Then I apply 'Mr Surfacer 500' with a small brush to fill any minor flaws, this is sanded back with vey fine sanding cloths about 4000/6000 grade with leaves a nice glass like finish. Time consuming but worth it in my opinion.
I have also opened up the exhaust and intakes on the engine pods, the exhausts having a small length of tube inserted for the actual pipes. The undercarriage themselves are intended to be built with the wheels inserted before gluing together, so I decided to remove a slice of the wheel so that the wheel can be inserted at the end of build. The canopy was dipped in 'Kleer' a couple of times allowing to dry between dunks, the result a much clearer canopy.
Once dried the glazing was added to the fuselage, with thick superglue in very small amounts, then liquid poly added the fix into place. The glazing was masked with Tamiya tape in thin strips leaving the framing uncovered, any gaps were addressed with 'Rocket Water Based Filler'. This is applied as a filler to the joints needed then whilst still wet, using a damp cotton bud or wet Mk.1 finger smoothed out, and excess removed. Once dry sanded with the same fine sanding cloths.
I had decided not to add the cabin windows so I decided to glaze them with Clearfix at the end of the build, but as to protect the interior these were filled with PVA glue in the following manner. A thin bead of PVA was added to the window edge on a cocktail stick the using a cocktail stick then a coffee stirrer stick cut down to just under the window dimensions and made to a chisel end was dipped into the PVA and the glue drawn across the opening, capillary effect the creates a skin of glue in the opening. Once all four were done on the side the fuselage was turned over so that gravity could work on the 'skin' and help it to be flush with the kit fuselage. The other side will be done in same manner.
Next will be to do some work on the landing light before the wings are attached, and the fuselage given a quick blast of Mr Surfacer 1500 grade via aerosol to check for any unspotted flaws before wings added.
Some pictures to show the above:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Few more pictures..........
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Beautiful and painstaking work.
I wish I had your patience.
-
Cheers Zak,
Still plodding away, but I can see then a finish line................................in the distance!!
Bigkev
-
I can't even see the start line with my models !
-
Thanks Msea,
But that's not exactly true, you always have a final destination/look in mind.
Anyway a bit more progress with this one.
The windows have been 'filled' with PVA to prevent paint etc. getting in. You can see the film covering openings now it has dried. It will be removed at end of project and replaced with some 'Clearfiix' or 'Kristel Kleer' for a clearer look.
Also I have sprayed Mr Surfacer 1000 on fuselage to identify any areas needing attention, and a small section on canopy needed a little filler which has been applied. Also some additional Tamiya tape where existing one showed signs of lifting.
The undercarriage legs have been attached to the pods and some filler was required to make good, seen here prior to sanding.
Note I have used a wooden spar to aid painting, the Skyservant due to its unique layout means that the wings will need to be attached first, then the colour scheme, including pods applied, then the pods will be attached and any remedial paint touching up done on the joints. You can see I tried to put some wooden spars into the Undercarriage/Engine pods but was not successful.
The wing light has had a Balsa master made and this will be sealed with Dope and talcum powder sanded smooth and a new acetate cover moulded from it. Wings will be attached to fuselage next.
Pictures to explain attached.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
A few more pictures
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi All,
Well a little more progress has been made. The wings are attached and resulting gaps filled with Green Stuff, Thin Superglue and finally some Mr Surfacer 500. Then sanded carefully to what you see in the pictures. Also I added the flap actuator fairings to the wing undersides (6 in total) which do not appear in the kit. These were scratch built from suitably shaped bits of plastic card, and attached. Some of the previous grey coat was removed in the sanding process. This was easily remedied when an overall coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 from a rattle can was sprayed on.
I shall leave it to harden for at least 24 hours, before the paint scheme is started.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Just a note. The grey Mr Surfacer looks very shiny and wet. It was at time picture was taken, but as I write it is now a smooth even satin surface requiring a light polishing in about 24 hours time.
Its amazing how good this stuff is............
Bigkev
-
Thanks again for the detailed explanation, backed with some good pictures.
-
Here we go, a little more progress............
The Mr Surfacer has dried nicely and I have taken opportunity to add some fine wire to the inside of the light area to act as a 'ledge' for the future vac form glazing I need to make yet.
The whole airframe was now rubbed over with a 6000 grade polishing cloth, which smoothed out any small blemishes. The 'eagle-eyed' amongst you will notice (or perhaps not) the small blemishes on the wingtip, these will be dealt with before the camouflage scheme is applied.
Out with the airbrush and Revell Gloss Black was sprayed onto the propeller bosses in thin coats to provide a high gloss finish in preparation for the Alclad II 'Chrome' later in the build.
Also whilst out the airbrush was cleaned out and re-loaded with Tamiya Matt White XF-2 which was applied to the Rudder and wingtips as a base for the Day-Glo area's to be applied here.
That's it for now......
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
It's coming along nicely.
-
Wowza Kev, I don`t know how you do it!
-
Hi All,
A little more progress. The Day-glo Orange has been applied to the wing tips, being masked before hand.
it took about three light coats to get an nice even coverage, this was allowed to dry 24 hours between each coat, and lightly rubbed between each coat with Micro Mesh 6000 grade.
These areas when finished were again masked in preparation for the other airframe colours, using tape and paper masks again.
Finally the propeller bosses were given three thin coats of Alclad II 'Chrome' which left a nice finish to these.
Some pictures follow:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I am amazed at the amount of effort that needs to go in to produce models of this standard! I thought I was getting the hang of being patient but it's clear I have a little way to go yet. Kev, I'm learning so much from these builds. Keep them coming.
-
Yes, patience is the key, unfortunately it is one thing that I am a little short on.
-
You clearly demonstrate that to achieve the results that you do, modelling is far more painstaking than I think I am willing to be.....if you understand that!
-
Thanks lads,
Your comments are very welcome. Speed is not my forte, but I aim to finish this for Christmas, so I can start on a new project for the New Year.
Hope to get undersides painted next, prior to upper surface camouflage.
Bigkev
-
If we don't go we can always come back!!
-
I am going to cheat the railways...I am going to buy a return ticket and not come back!!
-
Hi All,
Well a little more progress has been achieved. I have managed to spray the undersides a Tamiya mix of Medium Sea Grey and White roughly 50%/50% to give a key to the silver undersides. The nature of the subject means that I will need to add the engine/pylon after the top surfaces have been painted then a re-touch of paint work before Aluminium is applied to the under surfaces. These can be seen masked with Tamiya tape and paper. I like to use thin strips of tape supplemented with ordinary white photocopier paper, to cover areas I want to mask, especially wing and fuselage undersides.
I have used Xtracolour X254 Basaltgrau for the grey, as it has a nice glossy finish which helps later on in build. I tend to warm my Oil based paints in a small amount of hot water for a few mins. I find they tend to spray more smoothly as a result.
When spraying I use a 30%/20% mix of Cellulose and White Spirit with 50% paint. The Cellulose tends to evaporate quickly after passing through the airbrush but aids the paints spraying by thinning the paint better to enable a smoother finish. I find two thin coats are required for a good finish, allowing about 24 hours between coats. Once happy a further 48 hours will be needed before the next colour is applied.
Whilst airbrush was out took time to spray the propeller tips yellow, and when dry mask them off with small strips of Tamiya tape cut to correct width. This enable all tips to be same.
Pictures of work follow:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Looking amazing as always with your work!
-
Are those suction vices you have stuck to a lazy susan? I tried one of those but the blasted thing never seemed to hold down for very long - don't know if it was just a bad design but I've lost confidence in them altogether!
-
Well Spotted Wizzel,
Your are right, it is a Lazy Susan, costing £1.00 at the car boot, and two Suction type vices which don't work (suction wise) on any surface. However the jaws are great to hold pieces in, in this case the engine nacelles ready for painting.
Bigkev
-
Hi All,
Well I'm now on with the camouflage painting. To make the disruptive scheme I have used Blu-Tack 'worms' to mark out the Grey and Green areas. I normally fill in between the worms with Tamiya tape to cover the grey areas. I started, but then thought I would try using Maskol instead. Here you can see my 'painted in' Maskol liquid in between the worms. This will dry a dark purple colour and stop the green paint in these places. The 'worms' will help to give a slightly feathered edge to the green. However I do take the point that some people views in 1/72 these are not really seen, but my view is it 'adds' to the subject more than a hard edge that would be depicted in 1/72 scale.
Next will be the green..........................
Some pictures follow.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
....and how do you remove the Maskol? I have the stuff but have not yet used it....don`t know enough about it.
-
Hi Kiteman,
Its a rubber type compound, and will just peel away when ready. You can encourage it to come away from the more difficult places by using some Tamiya tape wrapped around your finger tacky side out and dabbing it on the Maskol.
Spraying the 'Green' tonight, wish me luck.
Bigkev
-
Good luck!
-
Hi Zak,
Thanks for that. I have now completed the first coat of green. I used Xtracolour 'X-18 Nato Green' the same as I used on the Skyservant to keep both airframes the same.
I have also sprayed the propellers in a pale grey ready for the de-icing sections on the blades.
I will probably need another coat of 'Green' to ensure even coverage. Hey Ho!
Some Pictures follow:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi All,
Another coat of green added. The props have had the masking removed from the tips and the props given a coat of 'Kleer'
Also the Wheel hubs and tail wheel strut, wheel hub have been painted in Aluminium ready for the tyres being painted.
Tomorrow, I shall remove the masking from the camouflage colours to see how it looks.
Bigkev
-
Ta Dah!!
Masking removed, and apart from a couple of paint blemishes with the grey I think it looks okay. The blemishes can be easily touched in once the silver undersides have been applied.
A small portion of masking on the canopy was removed whilst removing masking material (Maskol/Blu-Tack) so will need re-applying before any more painting done.
The remains of the Blu-tack worms and Maskol can be seen in one of the photos, though it will need to be thrown away now, it still has been an easy and cheap option to mask the camouflage.
Pictures of progress to date:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Hi All,
Well a little more progress has been made, and the masking has been removed from the undersides revealing the Pale Grey (the base coat for the Silver). A small amount of peeling occurred near the tail, though nothing that cannot be repaired easily by a little sanding a re touching in of the paint before the Silver is applied.
Also I took this point to also reveal the Day-Glo Orange and all is well on that front.
You can also see where the Dark Grey upper surface needs attention, this again a case of gentle sanding followed by a retouch.
The engine pods will be attached after the silver paint has been applied and then the joints attended to. A little repaint will then be required to make good.
Some pictures of the above:-
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Stick at it Kev, ...and thank you for such detail of your WIP, warts an all. Not all modellers would do that! From you people like me learn a lot!
-
Hi Kiteman,
Thanks for that, a few more 'warts' appeared which I will redress. Just sprayed the silver and all looks good on that front.
Bigkev
-
Hi All,
Well a little progress update. The masking revealed some problems with the Grey but also the Green had a few issues. I knew that once I had the 'pods attached I could redress these, that was the plan.
I masked the de-icing boots from the tail, tailplane and wings in preparation for the black, also the 'pods' were masked around the exhaust area.
Once the black had been sprayed on the masking was removed to a mix of achievement and despair. Some of the grey paint had lifted again, and the masking around/in the windows revealed the base plastic. Also some of the black de-icing panels lifted too, a GRRRR moment!
I decided before I attached the pods to redress these problems. Using a low pressure and thin paint mix I was able to spray and touch in the damaged area's, in the appropriate colours and make good, though a few very small bits will need a fine brush to make good.
Here is the progress to date in pictures.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Some more pictures of progress............
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Final set of progress pictures.........
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Nice.
-
Very nice.
-
Thanks guys much appreciated.
Getting quite near to completion now. Have attached the engine pods and filled them as best I could. Design of aircraft is such you can't get in too well. I used a Flexi-file with the sanding band cut down thinner to get into the gaps between fuselage and pod. Some minor paint touch up was required once done.
I then applied two coats of 'Kleer' to seal paint ready for decals/transfers, sanding gently with some 8000 grit polishing cloth between coats to remove any hair/dust in surface. The markings were applied, the code letters from the kit were out of register but I did not have any others of correct size. These will need to be touched in once dry. The kit decals were showing their age being thick, yellowed in places. The national markings came from spares box, the unit markings from the kit. I used micro set and micro sol decal solutions to make the decals seat better to paint finish.
Wheels and props added to check positioning and set up.
Bigkev
Some pictures of above:-
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Few more pics......
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
It is coming along nicely.
-
Thanks Zak,
looked at the planes codes and decided to tidy them up a bit.
Using a fine brush, I over painted the excess white around the numerals with the appropriate colour, I also tidied up the register issues with a couple of the national markings. In the photos below you see before and after with the numerals.
At this point I added a 2mm clear lens from Little-Cars for the starboard landing light. I made a new acetate cover to be added after final varnishing, using the A-la-Ron technique (Club members speciality). Trimmed ready to fit.
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Will it be at the January meeting?
-
Should be, and me too!
Bigkev
-
ooooo................a rare treat, I shall look forward to that.
-
Is that the plane, me or both...........................?
Anyway in the final throes of completion. Will post tomorrow with finished article, well, that's the plan. Just a couple of navigation lights to add now.
Bigkev
-
Well two days after I thought here is the finished article. I added the fuselage windows from 'Kristal Kleer' after trying Humbrol's Clearfix and being a little disappointed with result. The navigation lights have been added from 'Kristal Kleer' and Tamiya Clear Red and Clear Green. An aerial from stretched Black Sprue was added from the tail to its inlet just above the cockpit. I used thin superglue to attach a length that was approximately the correct length plus a 'bit'. This once dry was tensioned with a heated pin held close underneath, this make the sprue contract and taught.
The acetate cover for the landing light was carefully cut out from the one I had moulded and attached using PVA.
Now finished I am satisfied with end result, but I now realise how much an 'older' mould takes to a newly released kit. An enjoyable project.
Hope you like the finished result,
Bigkev
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
It is a strange property that makes it contract when heated, but useful, it must be one of the few materials to do this.
A hairdryer works as well - oh like me you would probably have to borrow one.
-
Is that to blow the props around?
My hair (Or lack of it!) is just Rub and Go!
Useful tip nonetheless.........................
Bigkev
-
Jim Bauman uses the smoke from an incense stick, it works quite well and your model room smells nice for days after,
Haddock.
-
Magic, a superb build and thank you once again for sharing the details with us.