Well, continuing the Training theme, I have decided to make another Provost.
This time, it is a T.4 to go with my Provost T.1, and my Jet Provost T.3, again in 1/48th.
I will be making this one as a an RAF machine based at RAF Brawdy, in a two tone Grey scheme with some Yellow splashes of colour.
The kit is moulded in a caramel coloured plastic with Clear parts for the canopies/lights. In addition there are some nice Resin parts for the cockpit. Note, that I have already 'raided' the decal sheet for the roundels/insignia for the T.1, but it doesn't matter as this one will be using pale blue/pink roundels on this machine.
Some pictures of the kit follow, building will start as soon as I've added the final bits to the Provost T.1 elsewhere on here.
Thanks for looking:-
Kevin
Plenty on the go there Kevin.
Hi All,
Well back to this one after a little break.
I have thinned the wing trailing edges by scraping them with a knife blade, and then sanding them. As supplied, they are quite thick. Added the resin wheel well walls, but got a bit carried away on rubbing down on one of them so I had to add a bit of plasticard to repair. Also I removed the locating hole for the main undercarriage as it didn't line up correctly with the opening. A new locating point was made from some sliced plastic tube.
Cockpit base and bulkhead joined together. To get correct angle, I used some plasticard to support the bulkhead and retain the angle. On the port side of the fuselage, I have added a strip of plastic card to support the floor on that side. Note I have drawn the floor and bulkhead positions on the fuselage sides in readiness for the resin detail parts later in the build.
As this is a short run moulding, it lacks locating pins, so strips of plastic sprue were added to the starboard sides to support the fuselage joint later on. Nose lights:- These are provided on the clear sprue, and are intended to fit into recesses that you make in the nose. From previous experience I noted the openings were not entirely circular, nor the parts. I therefore decided to drill two holes to insert some clear sprue later in the build. These will then be cut and sanded to shape with the fuselage exterior, and the actual shape of the glazing seen determined by careful painting and masking of the lights.
Similarly, the wing tip lights are provided moulded into the tip tanks or as clear moulded items. I decided to cut off the tip of each wingtip tank, and used the glazed offering. Fly models have provided these with a convenient dimple on the rear face of the glazed part, which I painted Tamiya Clear Green and Red, which will show once assembled and polished.
The Rudder has a moulded trim tab actuator, as do the tailplane elevators. In order to portray these more realistically, I have cut away the moulded actuators to be replaced by scratch built items near the end of the build. I made my own narrow sanding stick from a cut down coffee stirrer to fit between the reinforcing ribs moulded on the rudder/elevators.
Some pictures of the above follow:-
Thanks for looking, until next time.
Kevin
Looks like a fair bit of work.
Thanks Chris,
Well moving on, I have now sorted the fuselage and done a test fit to see how it lines up. The resin cockpit side walls have been test fitted, together with the instrument panel and coaming.
The clear fuselage lights inserts have been sanded down from two pieces of clear sprue and are now awaiting inserting and glueing into into place before cutting to shape and polishing. Also have filled and sanded the Fin/Rudder and elevators where the moulded actuators have been removed. The wingtip tanks have had the glazed fronts attached Green to Starboard, Red to Port. These are now ready to attach to the wings once assembled.
Wings:- these have had a quick blast of Tamiya Gloss Black as a base coat for the Aluminium interiors.
Some pictures of progress to date:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin
Nice detail Kevin.
Great attention to detail.
Thanks Chaps,
Well moving on, today I have painted the wheel well interiors, the clear sprue inserts for the nose lights. Wings stuck together, tailplanes drilled and plastic pins fitted to aid assembly.
The resin cockpit sides have been fitted as have the resin intakes. Some Milliput was made up and applied to the resin intakes to fill some slight gaps (mainly from my lack of accuracy cutting). Any spare unused Milliput has been put inside the nose as a start to create nose weight, waste not.
Tomorrow looks like a rubbing down session. Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin
Lots of fettling no doubt, looking good.
Good progress.
Thanks guys.
Well today I have managed to get the intakes rubbed down, wings together, and the tip tanks in place.
To aid alignment of the tip tanks I have added two plastic pegs at the wing edge. To do this I placed the wing and the tank in place a drew two marks across the join line. This gave me a guide where to drill. Once drilled a peg is inserted into each hole in the wing and offering the tank into place. I like to use Tamiya Green liquid Poly as this is a little thicker. I apply some glue to each surface then press together. This creates a slight ooze, once happy properly align, then apply Tamiya Light Green (Quick Setting) along the join and leave to dry.
The nose light clear sprues were superglued in place, and reinforced inside using Rocket Powder (which is like ground up glass) it sets rock hard, so I should be able to cut off the excess sprues tomorrow.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking
Kevin
How accurate it all look, very well done -- its something that never happens with my models - hohhohoho
Very good Kevin.
Thanks chaps, most appreciated.
Well today after the nose light sprues have fully set hard, I cut off the excess sprue. I trimmed by scalpel as much of the sprue as I could, then I took some sanding files of differing grades and sanded back the remaining sprue standing proud of the nose contours. Once satisfied that they were as close as I could expect, I took a Polishing sanding stick and did a final sand down before I then used the polishing side (White) to restore the clarity of the exposed clear part.
The result is a clear light cover with a hint of silver inside.
Next job, work on the cockpit.
Thanks for looking,
Kevin
Hi All,
Sorry not been at the bench for a little while, been doing some 1:1 modelling in the garden, a new Potting Shed for Christine.
Now its finished, so back to the bench.
Today I did a check on the cockpit bulkhead, and could see some slight gaps at the top and side of the bulkhead. To remedy this I have added thin strips of plasticard of varying thicknesses to the bulkhead. Though this looks heavy now, it will be gently trimmed and sanded to shape to close those gaps to the bare minimum.
Also have filled and sanded the wing to tip tank joint.
Some pictures follow:-
Back soon, Kevin
Hi all,
Little update.
Now have got cockpit inset trimmed and sanded to shape and reduced the gaps significantly. The Instrument panel assembled, and a brace fitted to support it as the attachment points are quite small. The nose has been filled with a mix of Plasticene, some lead .22 pellets, and some aquarium lead sheet under the cockpit. I checked that there is enough by doing the fingertip balance, by balancing the fuselage between the fingertips in line where the main wheels will be. In my case there is plenty, no tail sitting with this one.
The wheels, legs and cockpit parts all cleaned up, and then given some primer. Whilst primer out, the intakes got a blast, and generally all is good, just a faint seam to rectify during final assembly.
The jet pipe installed and primed. Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking Kevin.
Looking very nice Kevin.
Hi Kev, when I'm checking nose weight I usually lay a pencil down flat and sit the plane on that as that way it covers both where the wheels are and goes across the wingspan. Maybe of use to you?
Hi Chris,
Sounds exactly what I do, but without the pencil.
Kevin
Hi All,
A little update. The cockpit side walls have been painted and decalled. I used a very dark grey, then applied a coat of 'Kleer'. After this had dried I gave it a wash of heavily thinned black oil paint. Once dry a dry brush with some light grey paint to highlight details.
The floor received a similar finish but I stopped short on the top of the bulkhead as I want to fill any gaps once the fuselage and cockpit interior is all glued in place. A slight difference was that around the rudder pedals and floor I added scratches from a silver coloured pencil where the boots would mark the paintwork.
The instrument panel was painted up. I added the dials individually from some Airscale instrument decals and some Reheat dials too. Those that were too big I just got a suitable size punch and die and punched the centre part I wanted. A few dots of colour added, admittedly using personal choice to add intrest.
All the above now need a sealing coat of Satin Varnish, and the the fuselage halves joined.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking.
Kevin
That's some nice detail.
Lovely cockpit detail.
Good detail
Your work is surgical Kevin.
Very nice.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Well moving on, I have now glued the fuselage halves together.
Being a short run kit, there are no locating pins, only the tabs that I attached the fuselage halves earlier in the build. Some misalignment on the two halves namely around the upper fuselage/spine and underside, were evident.
Also the fuselage/cockpit bulkhead would need some filler to fair in.
For the fuselage cockpit bulkhead I used Mr. Hobby tube filler, applied with a spatula. For the rest of the fuselage I used Milliput white. To keep the area of application to a minimum I applied Tamiya tape strips either side of the join, and also some finer strips across the fuselage where panel lines cross the join. This enables these to remain visible and not removed with over enthusiastic rubbing down. As can be seen in one of the pictures gaps in the Milliput where the Tamiya tape has protected these areas.
After a session of rubbing down with sanding sticks and wet'n'dry, got a nice smooth finish. The cockpit bulkhead faired in nicely and will need the paintwork touching in to match the cockpit internals later in the build. Any panel lines that have been lost or lost definition will be rescribed after the wings and tail have been attached.
Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking.
Kevin
A labour of love. Lots of fettling going on.
Certainly a lot of work there Kevin.
The dials and the placards really make the office look busy. Re the filler I'd forgotten about using tape to minimise overspread, thanks for reminding me.
Just think of the FUN you have had fettling this one down to shape - hohohhoho
It's coming along nicely, the cockpit instrument panel looks amazing.
Bob c
Hi Guys,
Thanks a lot for the comments, much appreciated.
Moving on, I have now got the tailplanes and wings attached.
The wings don't actually sit properly and some fettling of the tabs and slots was required. In order to get everything lined up, I used a bit of Sheet Aluminium that Haddock gave me a few years ago. I then used Balsa jigs under the fuselage and wingtips to get the dihedral I wanted according to scale plans. I used a metal weight on the fuselage to ensure it sat firmly then slid the balsa jigs into place, before adding a bottle of Tamiya paint to the top of each wing to hold it in place.
As I took the photo's about half an hour after glueing the wings, I noticed that the starboard wing was slightly out.
I re-jigged it and put extra weights in place. I will leave it to harden for 24 hours before I fill any gaps.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Good use of paint pots!
You'll get there Kevin.
Hi All,
Wings and tailplanes now set. The wing joint along the tops was quite good, as were the tailplanes, however I noticed that there was some discrepancy between the fuselage underside and the trailing edges of the wings. To help remedy this I superglued some thin plastic card alongside the wing edge. Also some plasticard was added to some gaps along the front of the wing joints.
I then used Milliput along all the major joints underneath, and Mr. Hobby filler to the rest of the joints.
Now laid aside to dry fully, then a sanding session beckons......
Thanks for looking
Kevin
You got shares in filler manufacturers Kevin?
Quote from: chriswil42 on June 05, 2024, 02:38:52 PM
You got shares in filler manufacturers Kevin?
No Chris, I haven't but I might consider investing in one, or perhaps see if I can get a discount? Ho, ho, ho
Kevin
Hi All,
Well after the rubbing down session, I have removed a darned lot of filler. The wing roots faired in quite nicely on the underside.
There are a few areas that will need a spot of filler here and there but nothing too serious.
Next job will be a blast of Mr. Surfacer 1500 to highlight any further areas.
Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin.
Hi All,
Well after masking the cockpit and wheel wells, and the attachment points for the air scoops on top of the fuselage, I gave all the areas where I had applied filler a blast of Mr. Surfacer 1500 Grey.
This revealed where I still need to add spots of filler, Along the under fuselage seam, the starboard lower wing root.
Also this identified where the panel lines lost during filling would need re-scribing especially under the fuselage, wing roots. I also noticed a bit of over zealous rubbing down had left a depression on the nose upper.
Overall coming along nicely, but a little more fettling needed before the paint shop.
Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking.
Kevin
That's some careful filling Kevin
Hi All,
Well a little more fettling done. The panel lines on the upper fuselage needed some refining/correcting where I had been a bit ham fisted with the scriber.
To the rescue came some Slow Setting Thick Black superglue from Ammo. I read on the internet that it can be used as a filler, and sands away quite like plastic.
I applied it with a cocktail stick along the areas that needed attention. After drying overnight, i began sanding it back. You can see in the pictures where it has filled the panel lines and also the errors. Being black it is easy to see. Now done, I will go over the panel lines again with some dymo tape, a sharp scalpel, and then a scribing tool.
Some picture of the above:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin
The glue certainly sounds interesting. Looking good Kevin.
The glue sounds a good idea - the model is looking good
That's some work going into this build.
Bob c
Hi All,
Well back to this one. The change to a cooler day or two means that I can get back to the bench, I cannot model when it is hot and humid.
The Fuselage has now been successfully rescribed, and a coat of primer sprayed on.
I have taken the 'return' to deal with the cockpit canopy, and to separate the windshield and sliding portion ready for later in the build. This is always a moment of possible dread. Hopefully I will show you how I tackle this problem.
Firstly, I take the canopy and fill it with Plasticene. This acts as a support to the plastic and also gives you something to hold more easily. Once done I use three strips of Tamiya flexible tape to mark the edge of the separation line. The three strips each on top of each other gives you a guide to run the scalpel along.
Then using a new blade in a scalpel, I run the tip of the blade along the cut line a couple of times using a little gentle cutting pressure to leave a groove in the plastic. Then I take a sharp pin in a pin vice and scribe along the line making the cut line a little more defined. Caution must be taken not to stress the parts by excessive pressure. Now I have a good defined scribed line I then use the fine edge of a razor saw and gently cut along the plastic taking care to follow the line especially when going around the curves of the framing.
The plastic will gradually give, and the plasticene supports the saw as you go along. Eventually, both parts are seperate, and the masking can be removed, as can the plasticene from the two parts.
It looks a bit messy at first but once the plasticene remnant has been cleaned off, all that is needed is a careful smoothing of the cut line with a fine sanding stick along the cut faces.
Next job will be to give each part a good wash in some warm soapy water and then rinsed off and dried. Then I can start dipping the parts in some Deluxe Materials 'Looks like Glass' and then once dry a further dip in some 'Kleer' which is harder and more protective.
Some picture of the above process follow, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Hi All,
This is what the canopy parts look like after a clean and dipping in 'Looks like glass'
Will give them a dip in 'Kleer' tomorrow.
Kevin
Great knowledge and useful techniques.
Looks good Kevin. Great tips.
Nice work on the canopy and great tips.
Hi All,
Thanks for your comments.
Now onto the painting stage, firstly the whole airframe got a couple of light coats of Tamiya Grey Primer straight from the rattle can. After a day of drying, I took a 4000 grade microcloth and polished the paint surface. This gave a really silky smooth surface ready for the first colour.....White.
Area's that are going to be Yellow have been given an intial coat of Tamiya White, once properly dry this will be sanded with the 4000 grade microcloth in readiness for a Pink shade as undercoat for the Yellow.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking.
Kevin
I'll be interested to see how the yellow works out.
If it looks like a banana its OK ::) ::) ::) ::)
Quote from: MSea on July 05, 2024, 03:21:27 PM
If it looks like a banana its OK ::) ::) ::) ::)
The tip tanks will be as near to a Banana shape on this model!
Kevin
Hi All,
The 'Pink' areas are now painted. I used a mix of 9 parts Tamiya White to 1 part Tamiya Red. It gives just the right amount of pink hue I think I'll need.
Once properly dry, a quick smoothing session and then I think about 3 or 4 coats of Tamiya Yellow should suffice.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking,
Kevin
Hi All,
First coat of Tamiya Yellow on. Happy with the way it covered and remained bright, the 'Pink' trick seemed to work okay. It will need at least another two thin coats to build up full opacity.
Once hardened will get a smoothing out before I mask the the Yellow areas that need further coats.
Some pictures follow:-
Kevin
Nice yellow.
Could be from Lincolnshire!
That's a good shade of yellow.
Quote from: chriswil42 on July 06, 2024, 03:11:32 PM
That's a good shade of yellow.
Thanks guys, not bad for the first coat.
I think I am going to warm the yellow slightly by adding a small drop of Red in the next Yellow coat. This Jet Provost was finished with 'Golden Yellow' trim, so at moment the Yellow is a bit too light/stark.
Have managed to mask the Yellow areas today, so tomorrow another coat will be applied.
Kevin
The yellow is coming along nicely. I must invest in some microcloths as I always seem to end up with lumps be it paint or varnish. The only positive side about using pads is they give a nice worn look to the paintwork.
Quote from: cph64 on July 07, 2024, 05:21:31 PM
The yellow is coming along nicely. I must invest in some microcloths as I always seem to end up with lumps be it paint or varnish. The only positive side about using pads is they give a nice worn look to the paintwork.
I have pads too, but I prefer the cloths. I use a variety of grades, but I find the 4000 grade has enough 'bite' to take out the rough spots, and leave your paintwork smooth and ready.
Kevin
Rough spots - sounds like one of my paint jobs - hohohhoho
Hi All,
Further coats of Yellow applied. Note that I have made the Yellow a little darker and less stark to match my references.
Some pictures at start of painting session to show differences, and two once yellow complete.
Kevin
Hi All,
Masking removed. I had a couple of areas on the tailplane and rudder, where the base paint lifted, probably due to a bit of moisture in the kit joint/surface. These have been rubbed back and will be recoated with some Mr. Surfacer which will 'bite' into the plastic and prevent any further issue.
Also noted a small hairline joint on the nose which again will get some Mr. Surfacer to fill, and then smooth out.
The difference in the two yellows can be seen. So once the above has been sorted it will be out with the masking tape again, cover the yellow ready for the first coat of Barley Grey on the undersides.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking:-
Kevin
Looking good Kevin.
Hi All,
well back to this one. Sorted out the paint lifting.
Masked up the canopy sections and painted the frames dark grey to match cockpit interior. These will then be painted the exterior colour to match the uppers of the aircraft.
So, whilst in the mood for painting, I decided to paint the undersides 'Compucolour' Barley Grey as per my references. To compensate for future varnishing darkening the paint I thought I would add a couple of drops of white. All seems good, correct colour paint or is it?
Well after a couple of coats, the paint mix began to take on a definitely 'Blue' hue, complete with some equally colourful language.
When dry I rubbed the 'Blue' Barley grey mix and looked towards Humbrols take on Barley Grey No.167. Again using a white to lighten the colour, I sprayed over the 'Blue' and got a much better colour.
I suppose the purists will say its wrong but I remember Col. Tony's saying TLAR 'That looks about right' and have settled on this.
I intend to use Humbrols 'Medium Sea Grey' No. 165 for the uppers. But that is next time........
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking
Kevin.
Looks good Kevin. You're getting there.
Hi all,
Update on progress with this one.
Masked off the undersides, and applied Medium Sea Grey.
Once dry carefully removed all the masking to reveal the yellow and two greys. Pleased with outcome, though on the starboard drop tank some grey paint had creeped through where the masking had lifted slightly. Have rubbed the overspray out, and will need to touch this in. After this a rub down to remove any paint build up on the edges where the masking had been.
Getting close to applying the decals now.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking.
Kevin
How many rolls of tape do you get through in a month Kevin -hohohoho - ::) ::) ::) ::)
Looking good Kevin.
Quote from: MSea on July 23, 2024, 01:08:38 PM
How many rolls of tape do you get through in a month Kevin -hohohoho - ::) ::) ::) ::)
My next container shipment is due.............
should have enough then. hohohoho
Kevin
Paint problem now resolved.
Had to re-apply colour twice to get correct shade.
Now ready for a coat of 'Kleer' prior to decals.
Some pictures, thanks for looking,
Kevin
I'm impressed by your work here Kev and very much looking forward to seeing it at a club meet.
Coming along nicely Kevin.
Bob c
Thanks for your comments chaps, appreciated.
Well model has now been given two coats of 'Kleer' to prepare surface for decaling. I forgot the natural metal tailpipe area, so I dealt with that once the Kleer had dried. Masked off the area and a coat of gloss Black followed by some AK metallics Aluminum once dried. All masking was then removed and the cockpit coaming painted in black.
Looking at this particular aircraft, the serial number needs altering to that in the kit. The Fuselage serials I can make up from my spares using Modeldecal white numbers/letters. The underwing serial can be made up from chopping and changing the kit items to the correct serial. However I noticed that the aircraft has a unit badge on the intakes which I will need to print out using inkjet decal film, using the warpaint image of this and reducing its size accordingly. This aircraft has the number 04 in white on the tail and looking through my spares did not have anything suitable. Then I found some Rub Down letters/numbers by Edding that I had which must be at least 30 years old!
I didn't feel comfortable using them as dry transfers, I was sure I couldn't get them to line up properly. So I did a test onto some clear decal paper, rubbing down the serial number and word 'transfer'. I then gave them a thin coat of Kleer. Once dry I did a test on a piece of old kit that had been painted gloss black. The decals worked perfectly, just like normal kit decals with no silvering.
I then did some '04's but couldn't get them to line up precisely, then a lightbulb moment, just apply each numeral seperately adjusting into place on the kit. This will be on my next posting.
Some pictures of the above, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Great tips.
Excellent detail Kevin and some good tips to boot.
For my Fw 190 A-8 build I needed some yellow '1s', having none I found some white '1's in the spares and coloured these with felt pen. Following sealing with Klear they took a long time to seperate from the backing paper, they were after all old Hasegawa ones, and when applied they stood proud. So it didn't work for me Kev but glad it did for you.
Hi Chaps,
Thankyou for your kind comments.
A little more progress now. Decals applied to Port side mainly. The unit markings on the yellow band have proven to be a bit of a headache. They have a Dark Blue surround around the roundel and bars, this option isn't covered in the kit decals. To overcome this I cut some dark blue discs from blue decal film that are slightly larger than the kit roundels. Once centered in the band the roundel and bar markings are then cut into separate sections and applied the roundel over the dark blue and the bars butted up up to this. Later in the build I will add very thin strips of blue decal film to encompass the bars. Note:- One of my pale blue roundels got damaged slightly during measuring, and will need to be touched in on final assembly.
The black edging on the yellow is decal film, and there are just a couple of minute gaps to touch in with black paint where it didn't quite fit.
Overall the decals are good, being nicely printed and good colour saturation. Remainder of decals will be added next. Finishing line now in sight.
Some pictures of the above, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Hi All,
More decalling done today. Now fully decalled apart from serial number on fuselage, lining around bars on fuselage, cockpit cut lines on canopy.
Ejector seats painting now started ready for final push.
Thanks for looking.
Kevin
Keep pushing. Looking lovely.
Looking great
Looking spectacular Kevin.
Thanks Chaps,
Well another two hours this evening at the bench, applying more decals. Have managed to apply the two serial numbers from Modeldecal numbers 'XP679'. To aid lining up, I applied a strip of Tamiya tape along the bottom edge of the serial line. Then it is a case of cutting each numeral/number as close to the edge of the item and apply in order. Think I have got it more or less okay. Whilst on the subject of serials, from the side profiles and photo I have seen of this aircraft it appears that they was no serials underneath the wings, so have left them off.
The unit bars on the sides of the fuselage have been trimmed in thin blue decal strips 16 pieces in all, and all wanting to not behave, but I persevered and got them on. Also the tip tanks had a black stripe on the outer faces, these were made up from some walkway lines from an old Spitfire decal sheet cut to length and to a point towards the rear of the tank.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking
Kevin
Hi All,
This morning I have copied and printed the unit crest from an image in warpaint profile for the Jet Provost. After getting the size right printed the image onto white decal paper for inkjet printers. I then cut some white rectangles of decal to act as background for the crests and applied them to the nacelle intakes. Then foolishly I thought I would apply the crests, but after a quick dip in water the ink ran........
Redid them and this time have given them a coat of 'Kleer' to seal the ink. Once dry, I'll try again.
Some pictures of the above, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Quote from: Bigkev on August 03, 2024, 10:25:11 AM
Hi All,
This morning I have copied and printed the unit crest from an image in warpaint profile for the Jet Provost. After getting the size right printed the image onto white decal paper for inkjet printers. I then cut some white rectangles of decal to act as background for the crests and applied them to the nacelle intakes. Then foolishly I thought I would apply the crests, but after a quick dip in water the ink ran........
Redid them and this time have given them a coat of 'Kleer' to seal the ink. Once dry, I'll try again.
Some pictures of the above, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Yes, I always put a couple of coats of varnish on the printed decals to stop the ink running. It does work.
Thanks Chris,
Yes, your right after a couple of coats and allowed to dry, the replacement ones went on as intended. I was just getting a bit ahead of myself, and not thinking about the inks.
At the moment, on the aircraft, and having a coat of Microsol to bed them down properly.
Kevin
Hi All,
After my little faux par with the inkjet decals, I redid them as noted in previous post. Now after fully drying applied to fuselage nacelles. Also I unmasked the canopies, and added the 'cut here' dotted lines to the main sliding section. The seats are progressing and should be ready to install soon.
Some pictures of the above, thanks for looking.
Kevin
This is a real mammoth task, Well done, lots of detailed information too.
Very nice Kevin. It is certainly a labour of love.
Thanks chaps, comments much appreciated.
I have been adding the Trim tab actuators to the elevators and rudder, using plasticard and stretched sprue. oddly for the Jet Provost the trimtabs on the elevators are one on top and one underneath on the other side. Once attached using Gator white glue, the respective actuators were touched in their respective colours. Whilst on with smaller airframe details, I attached the upper blade aerial, and the anti-collision beacon. (Not all JP's had this, but it is clearly visible in the photograph I have) Again once dry painted in their respective colours. The Anti-collision beacon is moulded in clear, so this was painted with Tamiya Clear Red, to give an impression of coloured glass. The wingtip tanks had their nose caps painted in Tamiya Clear Red and Green respectively, these being colour moulded items on the real thing.(The bulbs were clear underneath the covers)
Finally today I have drilled holes for the other underside aerial's, to be fitted along with the undercarriage.
Next job is to give the model a quick clean with a damp cloth to remove any decal solution's, greasy finger marks, then a spray overall of Satin varnish.
Some pictures, thanks for looking.
Kevin
Looks very impressive Kev, well done. Re the wingtip tank stripes if you remember I've used the black border stripes from decal sheets in the past, handy as they're straight and come in different sizes.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for your comments. I did remember your use of the border surrounds from the Airfix decal sheets, but they were a bit thinner than required and also a bit raggered. Hence I used some walk way stripes.
I have used the Airfix ones in the past when they were more in keeping with what I needed.
Kevin
Very nice Kevin, are we going to see it on Wednesday night.
Bob c
Hi Bob,
Yes, I am hoping to have it ready for the meeting.
Kevin
Another trophy for the cabinet then? Lol!!!!
Hi All,
Now declaring this one as finished. Thanks for all your words and comments throughout the build.
Kevin
Another great build Kev, with lots of tips along the way.
Really excellent Kevin.