Bridlington & Wolds Scale Model Club Forum
Models => Modelling Projects => Topic started by: Bigkev on January 11, 2015, 02:51:32 PM
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Hi Guys,
Well straight into the next project for the website.
This is the Revell Concorde in 1/144th. I purchased this kit after seeing Andy's built Airfix Concorde in 1/72nd, and thought this would fit my build size. Andy's Concorde was amazing but a bit too large to transport easily, I remember the 'Coffin' containing the said Concorde sitting on our laps on the way to Huddersfield a few years ago!!
The kit comes in a large box containing three sprues, two in white one in clear. Usual Revell style instructions, and a reasonable sized but well printed decal sheet containing both Air France and British Airways schemes.
The mouldings are quite good, though not quite up to todays standard, with some flash being present, but not too much to worry about, the clear parts suffer from distortion, so I may resort to using a replacement set of decals containing windows and the later style markings seen of the Concorde before its retirement.
I have included some pictures of the parts, box art, instructions and decals before I get started.
Bigkev
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Looking forward to seeing your build.
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They all start like this, but usually dont end up like your models!
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Hi Kiteman,
Very kind words, but I only do what you do. Your work is easily as good as mine,
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well underway now. The first thing I did was do a rough dry fit to see how the project would be size wise and any potential fit issues.
I could see that the wing parts were not too good on mating edges and after a little tidying up I could see that the leading edges needed more support that those provided in the kit. So I added small tabs to aid location and add strength to this area.
The undercarriage bays are just open blank spaces so I decided to box them in using plasticard, I will later on add some piping and structural elements to improve the look. It will not be a 100% accurate depictation of the bays, but something that's looks representative, but much better than an empty void..
The trailing edges also were in need of tabs as they sat incorrectly with a gap between the surfaces.
Finally the fuselage has some sink marks and ejector pin marks marring the fuselage surface, these are shown marked in pencil ready to be dealt with later.
Hope the pictures convey what I have described.
Bigkev
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This was a beautiful aircraft and a I am really looking forward to seeing this one come on.
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Hi All,
After a short break in proceedings I'm back underway again.
I have fully boxed in the undercarriage bays, and added the main gear doors in a closed position.
The doors are normally closed at all times except for maintenance or during the retraction and deployment.
The get the doors to fit flush required some trimming, and fettling to get best possible fit. I used thick superglue together with 'Rocket Blaster' activator, and 'Rocket' powder (micro glass particles which help make a strong joint).
Also the sink marks on the fuselage have been dealt with for now, but will be checked during build to make sure they have been eradicated.
Please find pictures attached of progress as detailed above.
Bigkev
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I was happy to have discovered "green stuff" through you, and now you come with more magic potions that I have never heard of!!!!!
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Those spray silhouettes in the background of the pictures must be 1/72 scale? If so, crikey, how big was Concorde?? I've been on the one in the Tecknik Museum in Speyer, Germany but didn't appreciate how big it actually was. I really like to wonderfully smooth, glossy finish you get on these things but there's far too much science involved for me to try just yet.
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Hi Wizzel,
Thanks for the kind words about finish. I'm pretty sure you would be able to do the same, with a little practice and perseverance.
I still 'go off' sometimes, so it isn't all plain sailing.
As to Concorde's size, the silhouettes are of a 1/72 Bristol Fighter, the Concorde kit is to 1/144th, so to get a comparison you have to imagine the silhouettes half the size shown.
A PRETTY big bird none the less.
Bigkev
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Hi all,
A little bit further with this. I have weighted the fuselage using plasticine and some .177 air rifle pellets. I used the old balancing trick of where the main undercarriage sits and adding weight until it tips to the nose, then the same amount again to make sure! works every time for me.
Also I have 'tabbed' the port side of the fuselage to aid alignment, using small scraps of plasticard and also sanded the trailing edge of the fin/rudder as it was a little too thick.
I then glued the fuselage halves together using Revell Contacta and Tamiya thin liquid glue. The fuselage has been taped using Tamiya tape in small strips and 'Berna clamps' to get best join possible. Some sanding/filling will be necessary, but this helps it to be reduced to a minimum.
Pictures of work described.
Bigkev
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I'm learning a lot from those pictures, so the next thing then is to get some plasticard - probably at Huddersfield 0 as I can see that is so useful, not just for scratch-building but helping the general construction of a kit. I'll be bugging you all for advice at the show then. God work Kevin.
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Do you have shares in Tamiya masking tape then?
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Ah So Grasshopper!
Cyril managed to twist my arm a few years ago with an offer of cheap refills of Tamiya Tape and I took him up on that.
Still have some 10mm and 6mm unopened to use. Must try to build more kits to use it up!!
Until then I'll stick with it.
Bigkev
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I got a load from Cyril as well, still ploughing through it.
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Hi Zak,
I guess we both got carried away, didn't we?
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well the fuselage is drying nicely, and I will post after I have given it a first rub down.
In the meantime I have decided that rather than us the nose pitot supplied, I will replace it with a metal dress making pin.
To do so I have filled the nose cone with Milliput, for a solid attachment. Once set the nose will be drilled to accept the pin, and a filler of Superglue and talcum powder used to fair it in when glued in place.
Pictures attached to show.
Bigkev
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I'm a newcomer to all this Tamiya masking tape but I do like it. Got my first roll at our show in 2013 and still on it - well, just look at how quick I build (though I HAVE been at the bench lately - watch this space)!!! Revell brought their own version out recently which I think Kiteman has got. Wonder how it compares???
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Hi All,
Well the fuselage is drying nicely, and I will post after I have given it a first rub down.
In the meantime I have decided that rather than us the nose pitot supplied, I will replace it with a metal dress making pin.
To do so I have filled the nose cone with Milliput, for a solid attachment. Once set the nose will be drilled to accept the pin, and a filler of Superglue and talcum powder used to fair it in when glued in place.
Pictures attached to show.
Bigkev
I see you prefer talc with your superglue whereas I prefer baking soda - we must compare them at some stage.
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I like it because it smells nice!
As opposed to some of my other modelling solvents and paints.........................
I find it gives a really good smooth glass like finish, and is hard enough to withstand my handling!
Bigkev
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Hi, All,
Decided to get some replacement new decals containing window and door outlines from Draw decals, the same firm who did the 'Kulula Airlines' ones, so I'm sure they will be spot on.
Ordered them from America yesterday, so hopefully they will be here as painting of airframe comes close.
Hope to have this ready for Huddersfield.
Bigkev
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I am having visitors from the USA arriving this week.
Looks good Kevin, hope to see it at Huddersfield.
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Hi Zak,
On schedule so far..........................
Here in my latest post you can see the fuselage has had Mr Surfacer 500 applied to fuselage and tail seams.
Not all this is required but it gives an indication of problems in the join and help make them uniformly corrected.
Also can be seen 'Green Stuff' applied to sink marks present at this stage. Note that I have not used 'White Stuff' at this stage as it is too grainy in texture, and also would be harder to see after rubbing down and filling any area's.
Bigkev
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I quite get on with that Mister Surfacer. I got a pot of the middle thickness (500?) at our show in 2013 - along with me Tamiya masking tape - and plan on picking a pot of the thicker one up at Huddersfield. I have enough models now so it's time to stock up on some useful accessories to help the construction process I think. That you lot use all this stuff too is recommendation enough. Still doing a lot of trial and error but pleased to say the error factor is decreasing each time.
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I am also amazed at the amount of potions and pills that get used by you guys. Before I got active on this sight I only had glue and paint....oh and a sanding stick. Like Wizzel I am going to have to invest in some of the magic stuff to improve my modelling I think.
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Hi All,
Just wanted to share with you the progress with rubbing down. As you can see the Mr Surfacer 500 has been rubbed down using various fine grades of Wet'n'Dry used wet with soap as a lubricant.
Finally finished with some 8000 grade micro mesh cloth again used wet to polish surface. You can see where the area's that needed attention were, and where the 'green stuff' has filled the sink marks.
Nose cone and wings attachment next..........................
Bigkev
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The delights of sanding eh?
Worth it with the exceptional finish you get though.
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Cheers Zak!
Hope to have it looking like a Concorde by end of next week!
Bigkev
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Ah, there's another tip Kevin - using soap with the wet and dry!
I've been brave enough to start doing this filling and rubbing malarkey and it's worth the time and effort. I also have them sanding sticks I got from Little Cars at .... you've guessed it, our show in 2013. I like those to get the polish on things such as the little round portholes in the fuselage. Wing roots is where I struggle though at the minute - HOW do you get into that tiny gap???
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Try wrapping some of that sanding/polishing cloth I gave you round a cocktail stick or something similar, you can make "files" by super-gluing wet-n-dry to cocktail sticks too.
Haddock.
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Cheers Haddock, I shall give that a try. Slowly but surely, and with the help of all of you, I'm building quite a data file of tips and tricks! And I'm now brave enough to give these things a go too, that's important, putting the theory into practice.
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experience cannot be learned, it must be earned!
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Hi All,
Sorry not much progress made with Concorde for a while. Getting the 'Secretary Rites' completed for the newsletter, and dealings with Geoff's sad passing away has stifled progress.
Anyway on a positive note, the replacement decals from Draw Decals, from America have arrived today. They look very good as I expected. I cannot wait to start again, getting the kit together and as Haddock puts it, 'some paint sloshed on'.
Anyway some pictures of the Decals for now.
Bigkev
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Nice to see them correctly named Union Flag, not Jack. I will be after some advice on where to go (!!!) for some markings for specific aircraft so standby at Huddersfield to introduce me to some personalities.
Looking forward to seeing and hearing about how these markings take.
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Hi All,
Well we are back on the build again. I have glued the nose on and the visor, but as you can see they don't fit too well! Hmmmpf!
Also the wing is assembled minus the engines, this went pretty well despite being a tricky fit on the leading edge.
Filling next time.............................
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well now the nose and visor are dry, its time to fill any gaps present and smooth the surface. For the nose /visor I have used a mix of Talc and Thick superglue. This is applied over the gaps and then sprayed with Activator to make it go off.
Notice the windows have been filled with Mr Surfacer 500. This because the replacement decals will portray all the windows. Added with a small brush, once dry will be rubbed down and should reveal neatly filled windows, well that's the theory.
The wings only needed a little rubbing down in the main, any hairline gaps will be addressed once the wings are attached.
The eagle eyed will notice the wheel wells still need to be 'plumbed'. I will get this done a bit later on.
After an initial rub down of the nose area, a few slight depressions were noticed and I have added some 'Green Stuff' to redress these.
Once dry I will rub down again and inspect for flaws.
Bigkev
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Looks messy at the moment but I know what`s coming. It is very generous of you to explain in detail the steps that you are making, with all the potions that you use. I learn an awful lot from people like you, that improves my modelling, and for that I am eternally gratefull.
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Hi Kiteman,
Cheers for that.
I hope my builds give you the confidence to try some of the things that work for me. Like yourself you pick up lots of tips just by talking and watching others.
I am still learning things too, etch brass is my 'bogey' I need to overcome.
Bigkev
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Well a little more progress.
I have rubbed down the green stuff on top of the fuselage and it is looking good now, no sink marks apparent.
The windows have been rubbed down, you can see before and after, and if you look closely you will see the first four windows on the port side are slightly darker where I have put some green stuff on and rubbed that down to fill remaining depressions.
You will also notice that I have refilled all the windows in White Stuff filler again. This should be enough to make them good enough. It only takes 30mins to dry so I'm writing this whilst it goes off.
The nose undercarriage doors ( main ones are normally closed at all times unless gear is retracting or coming down or for servicing) have been glued in place and some small 'levelness' has been dealt with by applying filler to the affected areas. I have masked the outside of the doors where I do not want filler to go.
Rub down here I come!
Bigkev
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Too much rubbing down, don't wear yourself out.
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I'll look like, and be the size of Tom Cruise when I've finished!
Bigkev
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Hi All,
All rubbed down now. I first sprayed the nose in Mr Surfacer 1000, which comes in aerosol form. This is great stuff, as it really gives a good smooth overall finish. It highlighted some imperfections which I dealt with. It also filled any small areas not noticed. When dry the nose of the fuselage was then given a very fine sanding which removed all but the filled imperfections and the panel lines.
Whilst waiting for the fuselage, I prepared all the other parts ready for painting, the engine nacelles needed a little fettling to start with, but as you can see the intakes are now tidied up and ready for painting.
Next job will be to prime these parts ready for paint and Alclad II where necessary.
Some pictures of process so far.
Bigkev
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I echo Kiteman's gratitude at being told not just WHAT you did but also HOW you did it. All very useful stuff. Just so I understood it correctly, did you "polish" the superglue around the visor once it had set, to represent the glass of the visor? If so, am I also correct in saying you effectively created your own clear part?
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I am amazed by your work...it`s like magic
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Cheers Gents,
Thankyou for the comments.
Wizzel, I rubbed down the superglue/talc as it is a harder better filler for things like airliners. The clear kit part is still there but its mating edges are now filled and very smooth.
I will be applying decals for the cockpit and fuselage windows once painted.
Cheers
Bigkev
PS. Wing to fuselage tonight, will post tomorrow after it has dried.
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I really do admire your attention to Detail.
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Hi All,
Just like to show you that the wings are now attached. I had a little difficulty getting it all lined up all in one go. So I resorted to doing it in two stages.
Firstly I glued the undersides at the front and rear. I found a small gap at the front, which I partially filled with a slice of plasticard.
As you can see there is a small gap either side to be dealt with when all dried. When front and back were dry I turned my attention to the top joins. These were very good, just some tape needed to hold them in place whilst the glue dries (in this case Tamiya Thin Liquid Glue)
I also used 4 Berna clamps to hold the joins level. These are brilliant, and I thank Haddock for bringing them to my attention. I recommend them to everybody.
The engine parts have been sprayed Tamiya Gloss Black, in readiness for Alclad II silvers.
Next job is to fill the gaps with Green Stuff and Super Glue/Talc and to attach the nose pitot and fair that in again Superglue/Talc.
Pictures of progress attached.
Bigkev
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Ever the perfectionist.
Your builds are a real credit to you.
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ditto!
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Hi All,
Well the gaps have been filled and the nose pitot attached. I used my superglue/talc mix for this and you can see if you look carefully the mix is semi opaque, however I did knock it off twice due to being clumsy, needed repairs on each occasion. Now it is secure and I'll be a bit more careful.
I found a small area on the underside of the wing leading edge that had not cleaned up properly due to the wing flexing. So I ran some thin superglue into the joint, applied accelerator, then my superglue talc mix as a filler. I have protected the surrounding areas with tape, and used a clamp to hold the wing in place whilst it all sets. I will tackle the rubbing down tonight.
I have plumbed in the wheel bays, with assorted strip and rod, just to make them look busy.
Next job is to attach the elevons fairings on the wing underside, paint up the inside of the nacelles, undercarriage legs, wheels.
Until next time.
Bigkev
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Like you I find those clamps suggested by Tony B very useful.
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I like the look of those clamps......where can I get some?
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I like the look of those clamps......where can I get some?
We all bought then on offer from Hobbycraft, I cannot remember their name?
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Hi Zak/Kiteman,
They are 'BERNA' clamps.
They are quite common, though Hobbycraft had them at half price at the time...........................Think we're tight Yorkshireman???
Kiteman if you want I will look out for some at Huddersfield.
Bigkev
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That would be great. If you see them pick me some up please. Naturally I will re-emburse you. Is it true that Yorkshiremen have deep pockets and short arms?
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Hi Kiteman,
Being in Germany you probably don't come up against the likes of Wizzel and his club mates.
We are like Chimpanzee's but in reverse, yes Short Arms and Deep or sown up pockets!
We are though a friendly bunch, and this usually overcome
this shortcoming, especially if you corner us in the bar!
Bigkev
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Being from next door myself (Lancashire) I know what you mean.
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Get a list to me and I'll put a red cross parcel together.
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Is that relief for those in need?
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Who ? Lancastrians or Germans?
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As I am from Yorkshire, both of course.
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Full of benevolence, us lot. We'll help any bugger out, if there's summat in it for us!
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I find watching you guys build is very motivating, thank you again!
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Hi All,
Things been a bit slow on the modelling front, what with work shifts, Huddersfield, and family matters to attend.
Anyway work has restarted, and I have now sprayed the insides of the nacelles and also the wing interiors of the nacelle area. This is to ensure that no light or openness can be seen when modelled is handled.
I masked off the area with tape and applied Tamiya Matt Black, a nice even finish was rapidly achieved after two thin coats. Tamiya paint is great as it covers really well, and sprays beautifully, and dries quick into the bargain.
As you can see there was a little overspray evident where I had not been careful enough. This will present no problem though to the white that will be applied as I will just lightly sand the area with 8000 micromesh which will soon remove any offending overspray.
The undercarriage bays are painted silver, but will have some 'colour' applied and a wash of dark brown to pick out the details I have made.
Pictures of the above:-
Bigkev
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Wish I could get your paint finishes, mine looks as though it's been put on with a dogs tail.
Probably was on the real thing!!
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Didn't know you had a dog?
Your finishes always look ok to me.
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Hi All,
Well a little more progress. The nacelles were assembled, and then they were test fitted to the wings. It was apparent that there would be a small gap around each nacelle. Rather than just fill, which would have been prone to cracking, I decided to cut some small strips of 10 thou card to each edge of the wing engine nacelle opening. As can be seen this stands proud of the wing surface, but will be easy to slice off when dry (12hrs).
I also felt the nacelles wanted to sit a little too low in the wing, so I have added some small tabs to the to bring them into line and reinforce their location. Small amounts of trimming will be needed here to get possible fit.
When the nacelles are offered up to the wing the joint will need some filler, but only minimal as the card fills most of the void nicely.
You will also notice some damage to the black paintwork where I attached the engine exhaust rear. This will be retouched once nacelles attached, ready for Alcad II for the 'Hot' areas of the nacelle.
The fuselage and wing joint got a further coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 spray to check for any flaws along the seams. This will be polished back with 8000 micromesh before painting.
Some pictures of work described:-
Bigkev
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You have certainly been busy.
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You have the eyes of an eagle and the patience of a saint, that is why your work is sooooooooo good!
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Thanks for that Kiteman,
I also have the memory of a Goldfish!
Bigkev
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Thanks for that Kiteman,
I also have the memory of a Goldfish!
Bigkev
;)
I hadn't realised that it was that good!
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Cheeky,
Aren't you off to sunnier climes soon?
It might give a chance to catch up on your building rate.
Bigkev
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Monday, no modelling for at least a week.
The traction engine is coming along, needs a lot of rubbing down.
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Awhh that's nice,
Taking your Traction Engine on holiday with you, what a kind considerate man you are!
Have a good time, look out for that runway........................
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well the card has been trimmed flush and the nacelles glued in place. Some small gaps were evident so I used some 'White Stuff' body putty to fill these. When rubbed down there were still some very small flaws that needed some Mr Surfacer 500 applied with a brush. I have since rubbed this down too and confirm that they are now sorted!
You may also see after the airframe has been rubbed down, some unnoticed depression on both elevons aside the rear fuselage. These are shown as grey where the Mr Surfacer has filled them, so that blast of Surfacer 1000 was a good thing. The fuselage also had a few surprises with a small depression on the fuselage where on of the aerials fit, again the surfacer dealt with that too.
I am now happy the airframe can start to receive paint, and this will be the next stage starting with an undercoat on the treated areas before gloss paint can be applied.
Some photo's of the described work attached.
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Well painting now underway at last. I cleaned the airframe by wiping over with Plastic Prep, which removes grease and dirt. Once this had dried, I prepared my base paint which was applied over the areas of filler, and major joints.
I used Revell No.4 Matt White, with white spirit and cellulose as thinner. I found the White to be slightly cream in colour not a stark white which surprised me slightly, but did show up well where I had painted. The paint was applied by airbrush, with several thin coats necessary to kill the filler colour.
Once dry overnight, I then rubbed down the paint with 8000 grade micromesh, to give a really smooth surface, and also to remove any blemishes.
My next task will be give the whole airframe another coat of Matt White, but this time I will be using a tin of Humbrol Matt White enamel (No.4 size) that I found lurking in the garage that is about 10 years old!!
I opened it and found it to be in great condition and once properly stirred a good bright white, this will be the ideal base for the high gloss white I will be applying later.
Some pictures of initial Revell White painting done attached:-
Bigkev
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It looks good even from this far away!
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Blooming 'eck Zak,
Where did you get those specs from? The Russians?
Have a great time,
Bigkev
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Hi All,
Just to let you know all is well on the spraying of 'White'.
I have dispatched one airbrush which has failed, and cannot be resurrected. However I am confident, that its replacement will do the honours admirably.
Cannot post any pictures at moment as it is all a bit delicate and drying off. However after a couple of days drying I think I will be able to show how far we are, though both top and bottom still will need another coat (or two).
Note to Self:- Next project will not be 'White'
Bigkev
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How about "grey"
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You mean to match my hair??
Bigkev
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Is it grey? Is there enough to tell?
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Not after tonight, my darling wife has been let loose with the hair clippers!!
Yoikees!!
Bigkev
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It's all the science that scares me- mixing this with that and such like. Is there a template to it all or is it trial and error? Whatever it is, the finish you get is astounding.
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Ditto!
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Hi All,
Well not posted for a few days. Posting 'White' pictures all the time a bit boring.
But I have been busy painting and touching up here and there.
I am now happy with the 'white' and next job is to seal it with some 'Kleer' or similar before applying natural metal areas to engine nacelles. This is prevent (or reduce) chance of any paint lifting something I would not be too happy about.
Here are some nice 'white' pictures to show paint job so far.
Bigkev
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it looks "All White" to me.
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Dooooh!
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it looks "All White" to me.
That's because it's powered by engines not horses - no yolks needed.
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Okay Guys,
A little bit of time has passed since I last posted but I haven't been idle.
I have managed to paint the engine nacelles, and I started by painting these Gloss Black in readiness for Alclad II. I had to mask off all the natural metal areas first and this was achieved using Tamiya tape and Paper. First thin strips of tape about 2mm wide was applied to the edges, then a further thicker tape edged with strips of paper. This covers a large area quickly and reduces the amount of tape in contact with painted surfaces. However problems were encountered.
The Gloss Black was sprayed on and allowed to dry, then Alclad II Duralumin was sprayed onto all the natural metal areas exposed. The first part of the nacelle was then masked out and Alclad Steel was airbrushed on the remaining areas. After about 30mins this was over airbrushed with Alclad 'Jet Exhaust' to the rear of the hot areas. This help portray the hot areas of the nacelle quite well.
The tape and paper was removed to reveal the paint job. Great, up to the last couple of masking tape strips, when the starboard inner upper elevon paint job peeled................ BLAST!
The only way to rectify this was a re-spray of the elevon to be tackled at a later stage. However the 'Metal' areas were pleasing, despite the elevon problem.
Oooooh well, strip the elevon, and repaint!!
Some pictures to show what I describe follow:-
Bigkev
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Hi Guys,
More pics...........................
Bigkev
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Hi Guys as you can see the damage to the elevon (in the main) is apparent.
A quick blast of white only highlighted the problem.
Bigkev
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Despite that, the rest of it looks very clean. I'm sure you will be able to rectify the damage with some of your magic potions.
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Hubble Bubble Toil and trouble...........................!
Hope to have damage repaired over next couple of days.
Bigkev
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If anyone can sort this out, you can.......looking very good though.
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Thanks Kiteman,
Yes, an unwanted problem but nothing is ever easy. I stripped off the paint off the elevon, but in the process broke the nose pitot!!
Clumpy fingers syndrome!!,
Now I have to repair the nose and repaint the elevon and nose area, oh happy days.
I have used Maskol ( another potion, Wizzel) to mask the area around the elevon. This should not be to aggressive to the paintwork around.
Also the nose has been repaired with a mixture of Talc and Superglue and sanded down to match the contours. It will be repainted with the elevon and also the undercarriage doors whilst I'm at it.
Some pictures attached:-
Bigkev
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.....and when you`ve finished no one will ever know......(except all the people who have read this string! ;))
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That's what I hope for!
Time will tell.
Bigkev
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I have a bottle of Maskol but would only ever have thought of using it for the intended purpose of masking clear parts. Another tip acquired. Improvise, Adapt, Overcome indeed.
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It's also quite good as a temporary adhesive for things like sticking deck-houses and such in place just so as you can see what the finished thing might look like.
Haddock.
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now there is a good idea!
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I read also that some people use "typewriter correcting fluid" (Tippex) as a filler of small joints too.
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can Typpex be sanded?
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Hi Kiteman,
I think it can, but I also think you can wipe away excess with Isoprpanol Alcohol on a baby Q-tip or similar.
Anyway onto Concorde. This beautiful aeroplane is high maintenance for me anyway.
I have repaired the elevon and nose and re-sprayed.
I could see that the elevon appeared 'whiter' than the rest of the airframe so I have now given it a quick blast of thinned white to help it blend in with the surrounding area's. Now all I need to do is start applying decals, and various undercarriage components and keep an eye on the nose pitot.
Some pictures of repair attached.
Bigkev
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Would that be isopropyl alcohol?
Also called propan-1-2-ol, as far as I remember.
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Aaaaah,
Never was good at Chemistry.
I shall lay prostrate and expect several lashings for my error!
Bigkev
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At the very least - you are in good company, Cyril usually gets it wrong.
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I read also that some people use "typewriter correcting fluid" (Tippex) as a filler of small joints too.
You can sand it or you can wipe it off with nail varnish remover. I find it doesn't stick to the plastic all that well. For my money, the best fine crack filler is Mr Surfacer 500, it seems to become part of the plastic. With all products that you're using for the first time, TRY IT FIRST ON SOMETHING THAT DOESN'T MATTER. You could also try melting stretched sprue with liquid poly.
Haddock.
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In the past I used to make my own plastic filler by dissolving sprue or old plastic in solvent - either Slater's MEK or something similar. You have to be careful as it does melt plastic very easily.
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There are some good tips coming out here, thanks guys and keep èm coming.
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Hi All,
Got back in the saddle again, and now nearly finished.
'Decalled', 'Kleered' and undercarriage attached, doors still to affix. Also a couple of aerials from plasticard
Bigkev
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Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.
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Best in class at least at North Shields.
Haddock
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Thanks guys, and very kind of you Haddock.
Lets hope I don't make a pigs ear of the final bits...........................
Bigkev
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Pigs ear, sow's purse.
Get on with it.
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It is looking superb Kev, I really do admire your work.
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He she is fully finished.
Have added undercarriage doors, and aerials. Also added the 'AG' code to front U/C doors.
Pictured on a representative base, though I will make something a little longer to get her to sit in properly.
Hope you like pictures.
Bigkev
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Your finish is, as always, impecable. Another superb model. It is a pleasure to see the photos.
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Great looking model.
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Can't spell magnificent, but it looks very nice!
Haddock