Bridlington & Wolds Scale Model Club Forum
Models => Modelling Projects => Topic started by: chriswil42 on December 19, 2020, 02:02:54 PM
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This is the next one from the stash - an Amodel kit.
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Looks like there'll be a few fiddly bits to keep you occupied in this one. Plus it's an A-Model kit so good luck!!!
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Not too much flash on the parts. A little clean-up is necessary - probably one of their better mouldings.
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It should be flying before Christmas Day !!!!!!!
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Cockpit, cabin and cabin roof almost done.
I'm not quite as quick as Dave.
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Cockpit and cabin assembled togther with roof.
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Coming along nicely.
Bob c
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Coming on. Just how big is this stash?
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Coming on. Just how big is this stash?
Enough for a couple of decades of modelling.
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Rotor hub and blades assembled - tricky.
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Will they contra rotate?
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Will they contra rotate?
Yes.
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Rotor hub looks good Chris. Kamov do like their twin blade sets!!
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Rotor hub and blades assembled - tricky.
Hi Chris,
Delicate work there.
Bigkev
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Rotor hub and blades assembled - tricky.
Hi Chris,
Delicate work there.
Bigkev
Very delicate. Broke bits off during the first assembly.
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Almost ready for masking. Glazing in and ubdercarriage added. I had to alter the length of one of the front oleoes to get it to sit straight.
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It does look strange unpainted.
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They always remind me of bumble bees - look great but also look like they should not fly
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They always remind me of bumble bees - look great but also look like they should not fly
Yes they do a bit.
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Nice build so far.
Bob c
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I like them as well, I have built one or two in the past, even one in 1/32 scale and the rotors worked, sold it on a dreaded auction website many years ago.
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They always remind me of bumble bees - look great but also look like they should not fly
Maybe I could give it black and yellow stripes?
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Sounds a great idea to me - but people only get into trouble when they follow my advice - so best go your own way Chris.
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Yes, I think I'll paint it as per the real one.
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White and sky blue done.
Dark blue tomorrow.
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This is going to be a cracking little model.
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This is going to be a cracking little model.
Hope so.
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Have you got shares in Tamiya Tape?
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Have you got shares in Tamiya Tape?
Wish I had.
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Have you got shares in Tamiya Tape?
Wish I had.
It is the best though.
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Dark blue on. Now just the underside to do with black.
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Lots of masking going on.
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Yes, it's used more tape than some of the larger models.
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A question Guys :Is it better to remove the masking whilst the paint is fresh,
and therefore still soft, or wait until it is fully hardened?
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Sorry Chris, I forgot to say the model is looking good!
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A question Guys :Is it better to remove the masking whilst the paint is fresh,
and therefore still soft, or wait until it is fully hardened?
Hi Howard,
I find it better to remove the tape ( pulling away) from painted edge whilst paint has not fully hardened.
It works for me.
Cheers, Kevin
PS. By the way Chris, a lovely build.
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Here is the completed model.
Interesting that you remove the masking tape when the paint is not fully dry Kevin. I usually leave it for 24 hours but I do get flaking on the edges sometimes. I think I'll give your method a go next time.
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A question Guys :Is it better to remove the masking whilst the paint is fresh,
and therefore still soft, or wait until it is fully hardened?
I think it depends on the paint you are using.
I use Mr Colour, thinned with self leveling thinners
The tape comes off as soon as I've cleaned the airbrush.
Looks OK to me, (from a distance).
Haddock.
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Hi Chris,
I find that I try to remove the tape once it is 'touch dry' but still soft enough to leave finger marks in it if handled.
You need to work away from painted edge and make sure you don't inadvertently touch any new paint.
I also agree with Haddock, differing paints behave or dry in their own way. So, you need to know you preferred paint and judge that moment when it is still 'soft'
Cheers,
Bigkev
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Excellent advice chaps. I'll certainly be removing the masking tape earlier in the future.
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A very nice looking helicopter Chris. I’ve nearly always removed masking tape when it’s still tacky had problems in the past if left until dry.
Bob c
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Another great helo Chris.
Kev, how do you get around cockpit glazing etc. if you remove the tape whilst the paint is still tacky? Do you remask when varnishing or leave the tape on those areas?
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Hi Chris (H),
Good question. Answer is if, the paint scheme goes over some glazing then I do not remove the masking whilst still not fully cured, but I do add a varnish coat as soon as is possible, and then remove the masking.
Secret really is not to allow the paint to harden (say a few days) but as soon as you feel you can apply a varnish then do so.
Paint continues to cure over hours/days, generally most by 24hours. It is down to finding 'that happy place' in the paint drying time and acting.
Cheers,
Bigkev
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Good info Kevin - thanks.
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Yep, thanks Kev.
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Great looking model Chris.
Thanks for all the info on masking/paint, chaps.
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Very nice little model. Great work. 8)
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Some great tips here, thanks.