Thanks guys.
Well today I have managed to get the intakes rubbed down, wings together, and the tip tanks in place.
To aid alignment of the tip tanks I have added two plastic pegs at the wing edge. To do this I placed the wing and the tank in place a drew two marks across the join line. This gave me a guide where to drill. Once drilled a peg is inserted into each hole in the wing and offering the tank into place. I like to use Tamiya Green liquid Poly as this is a little thicker. I apply some glue to each surface then press together. This creates a slight ooze, once happy properly align, then apply Tamiya Light Green (Quick Setting) along the join and leave to dry.
The nose light clear sprues were superglued in place, and reinforced inside using Rocket Powder (which is like ground up glass) it sets rock hard, so I should be able to cut off the excess sprues tomorrow.
Some pictures follow, thanks for looking
Kevin 

Thanks Chaps,
Well moving on, today I have painted the wheel well interiors, the clear sprue inserts for the nose lights. Wings stuck together, tailplanes drilled and plastic pins fitted to aid assembly.
The resin cockpit sides have been fitted as have the resin intakes. Some Milliput was made up and applied to the resin intakes to fill some slight gaps (mainly from my lack of accuracy cutting). Any spare unused Milliput has been put inside the nose as a start to create nose weight, waste not.
Tomorrow looks like a rubbing down session. Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin

Hi All,
Airframe now sanded smooth after its Mr. Surfacer primer.
The parts that are natural metal have been given a coat of Tamiya Gloss Black sprayed with Mr. Hobby Self Levelling Thinner. This leaves a nice gloss finish in readiness for the AK Interactive Polished Aluminium/ Dark Aluminium top coats.
The sensor pod was also painted at the same time, the Black being on the reverse of the clear part. The clear part will be polished near the end of the build.
Whilst the airbrush was out, the bombs/missiles/launch rails given an initial coat of Olive Drab and Olive Green.
Some pictures follow:-
Thanks for looking,
Kevin
 

Very Impressive.
When I first read your description, I thought you meant "you didn't know where to put the Bar!"
Will look brilliant when done and finished.
Kevin
 

"A grand day out Grommit"
Thanks for posting the pictures Zak. Enjoyed the company and comradeship.
A good varied display from all those who attended. Nice to see other club members enjoying the show too.
Very nice to see Jon getting a very deserved Gold for his Vilderbeast in the competition.
Looking forward to the next show.
Cheers
Kevin

Hi All,
Well back to this one after a little break.
I have thinned the wing trailing edges by scraping them with a knife blade, and then sanding them. As supplied, they are quite thick. Added the resin wheel well walls, but got a bit carried away on rubbing down on one of them so I had to add a bit of plasticard to repair. Also I removed the locating hole for the main undercarriage as it didn't line up correctly with the opening. A new locating point was made from some sliced plastic tube.
Cockpit base and bulkhead joined together. To get correct angle, I used some plasticard to support the bulkhead and retain the angle. On the port side of the fuselage, I have added a strip of plastic card to support the floor on that side. Note I have drawn the floor and bulkhead positions on the fuselage sides in readiness for the resin detail parts later in the build.
As this is a short run moulding, it lacks locating pins, so strips of plastic sprue were added to the starboard sides to support the fuselage joint later on. Nose lights:- These are provided on the clear sprue, and are intended to fit into recesses that you make in the nose. From previous experience I noted the openings were not entirely circular, nor the parts. I therefore decided to drill two holes to insert some clear sprue later in the build. These will then be cut and sanded to shape with the fuselage exterior, and the actual shape of the glazing seen determined by careful painting and masking of the lights.
Similarly, the wing tip lights are provided moulded into the tip tanks or as clear moulded items. I decided to cut off the tip of each wingtip tank, and used the glazed offering. Fly models have provided these with a convenient dimple on the rear face of the glazed part, which I painted Tamiya Clear Green and Red, which will show once assembled and polished.   
The Rudder has a moulded trim tab actuator, as do the tailplane elevators. In order to portray these more realistically, I have cut away the moulded actuators to be replaced by scratch built items near the end of the build. I made my own narrow sanding stick from a cut down coffee stirrer to fit between the reinforcing ribs moulded on the rudder/elevators.
Some pictures of the above follow:-
Thanks for looking, until next time.
Kevin

Looks like it's coming together nicely. Paint shop soon?
Kevin