Bridlington & Wolds Scale Model Club Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: zak on October 15, 2020, 07:24:30 AM
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Browsing I came across something about EMA Plastic Weld and thought it might be a good idea if we had an item on the glues and solvents we use.
You could even include filler as well.
EMA Plastic Weld is a plastic solvent with very fast grab properties and evaporates very quickly. I deal for a fast joint where parts are correctly aligned. As it is a liquid, then capillary action allows it to flow in the joint.
Beware always replace the cap securely all it all evaporates.
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I suppose my preferred glue(s) depend on the use to which they are put.
I still use some tube polystyrene cement for large areas.
My preferred liquid is Slaters MEK, it has reasonable grab qualities and flows well. It is what I was brought up with as a sometime railway modeller.
I also use Revell Contacta where the needle like applicator allows small amounts to be used.
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Tamiya thin and Revell contacta for me.
Then thin superglue and thin PVA.
I sometimes resort to epoxy stuff.
Haddock.
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Like you I use thin superglue for etched parts on plastic and together.
I sometimes use thin white glue for delicate parts.
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Quite often for attaching brass surface detail (ladders and watertight doors etc) I use Johnsons just as it comes,
it seems to snuggle down nicely. I haven't had any come off yet.
Haddock.
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I ran out of Klear and called in Thompson's Hardware and he supplied me with the equivalent - still by Johnsons but called Pledge? It is not clear, perfumed but seems to do the same job.
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I use Revell Contacta and came across Plastic Weld whilst in a model shop in Dover so bought a bottle. Care is needed but it does what it says on the bottle. MY last resort is superglue thin or gel, I prefer gel as I'm not up to Haddock's standard with the thin yet.
I use Klear as preperation for and after decalling but finish with rattle can satin varnish, usually Humbrol but when I couldn't get some recently I bought some by 'The Army Painter' from Mighty Lancer. Bigger can and more value for money.
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I also use the Matt/anti shine varnish by Army painter, from Mighty Lancer.
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I use mainly EMA plastic weld and thick and thin superglue.
Ones you have not mentioned are double sided tape, tacky glue and wax and one you might not have thought about Gum Arabic - this is the same stuff that some/most of us used at school in a glass bottle with a pink flexible top with a slit in it.
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I use mainly EMA plastic weld and thick and thin superglue.
Ones you have not mentioned are double sided tape, tacky glue and wax and one you might not have thought about Gum Arabic - this is the same stuff that some/most of us used at school in a glass bottle with a pink flexible top with a slit in it.
So tell us what you use them for.
I also use Evo-Stick and UHU as well for non plastic and paper/card items.
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The tacky glue is just PVA and used for lots of jobs but the Gum Arabic - can be used as a good paper glue but I use it mainly for attaching thread for rigging onto masts, I like it more than using superglue for this job. I have also used the tacky wax to hold sections of card down in place before gluing with PVA - used this on the card ribs underneath the paper towel surface on the Fred Flintstone Plane, found the ribs tended to bend and come off the wing/body before the PVA had dried so the tacky held them in place till the glue did its job.
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Thanks Martin, always nice to get a bit of detail.
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Currently using Humbrol liquid poly fot the plastics and a superglue ( gorilla brand at this moment ) for resin an brass parts. I use Transpa Fix for attaching the clear parts whicj allows me to clean the transparencies after I've had my fingers all over them. I also use Fivestar canopy bond which is a good filler that dries clear.
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Hello all, thought I'd better put some effort in and get back on here. No more modelling to show yet - the Lavochkin diorama is still waiting the final touches - but I can contribute here at least!
I'm using Revell Contacta and Mr Cement S (equivalent to Tamiya extra thin I suppose?) for sticking plastic with an occasional dod of superglue where needed - usually to repair broken bits. For diorama work, mainly white wood glue and superglue in thick, thin and medium viscosity (I just get that stuff from Boyes - used to be Vitalbond but the brand they now stock is very similar). I've not done anything in brass yet but Haddock's tutorial at the club playday is still fresh in my mind so it'll be Johnson's and thin superglue for that when the time comes.
White PVA and matt Mod Podge is what I use for scenery such as static grass, trees and bushes.
Filling is something I always make a complete pig's ear of - I just can't do it with any precision at all. I've tried Humbrol filler, Squadron green and white putty and vallejo liquid putty but with little success. I think it's technique rather than product so maybe I should try and find some online tutorials!
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Hi Wizzle, I have used all three fillers you mention and still struggle at times to get a good finish. I hate it when you see photos in magazines and the filler looks like a hedgerow and the next minute it's a smooth as baby's bottom. What they don't tell you is how long it took to get there!!!!
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Hi Wizzle, I have used all three fillers you mention and still struggle at times to get a good finish. I hate it when you see photos in magazines and the filler looks like a hedgerow and the next minute it's a smooth as baby's bottom. What they don't tell you is how long it took to get there!!!!
Yes, artistic licence on part of the magazines. What it does show, it can be achieved, but not how long.
Bigkev
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Epoxy stuff for me, as it is usually metal. Sometimes use thick s/glue. but only
on small bits.
However, the next project, if there is one, will be resin, which
will be unusual for me.
i am pleased that you opened this subject up,Zak, as it has given me a few pointers!